Console Removal DIY

Hello. I read on another evil ebody forum, it was only six bolts to remove a console, and maybe some things unbolted. Boy did he make it sound easy. So I’m doing a quick small write-up on it. Sorry I didn’t take pics, didn’t know it was going to be this hard. I think that guy who gave the previous advice had dropped his whole steering column too, which could make it easy. He also lied and made it sound like you need to take the coolant out of the a/c system, which wasn’t even connected to the dash and was a complete lie.

There are 4 bolts in the dash on top on either end of the defroster/ac vent holes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the steering column, and for the record they had wayyy too much extra length on the studs which prevented later removal of the dash, so I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and shortened their excess length. They are still usable, and much shorter which made tilting the dash out easy. The last two bolts are on the bottom on either side, where the kick panels are.

As for electrical, you must remove the main bulkhead connectors on engine side (4 total, all shaped different so you dont have to keep track of them), then remove the two bolts holding the connector to the firewall. Then all the electrical connections to the steering column. I also had one wire which ran a grommet throught the firewall and went to one side of the coil. I also pulled the vacuum hose group connector that runs off the back of the a/c selector. Lastly, i removed the kick switch for the high beams (and just kept it with the dash), electrical for stereo (bottom left kickpanel), and the driver door sensor (1973). There’s also two connectors that run to the brake switch. The passenger door sensor I had to cut, since it didn’t have a connector that I could locate. Also remove the speedo cable! Mine pulled out, good opportunity to lube it for smooth speedo operation. Make sure you remove the hood release and leave it on the floor. Oh and if you have a/c theres a cable that runs to the heater "thingy" on top of the passenger side fender, just remove the cable where it attaches to the "thingy" and pull it through the firewall, as I couldn’t see how to remove it from the back of the a/c selector from underneath the console.

For clearance, I removed the steering wheel. I also needed to remove one of the trim peices to the lower right side of the steering wheel. The tricky part is, three or so screws are visible, the other three are accessible if you remove the three screws holding in the ashtray, and you can feel them to the left. The screws are pointed towards you, and it’s only like 3 inches before the wall of the panel, so you need a stubby screwdriver and some patience. Other than that, I think it took a buddy to help heave it out. Other than that, I think that covers everything I had to do to get it out. If I think of anything else I will edit it and add it in. Installation is reverse, atleast I hope

Hello. I read on another evil ebody forum, it was only six bolts to remove a console, and maybe some things unbolted. Boy did he make it sound easy. So I'm doing a quick small write-up on it. Sorry I didn't take pics, didn't know it was going to be this hard. I think that guy who gave the previous advice had dropped his whole steering column too, which could make it easy. He also lied and made it sound like you need to take the coolant out of the a/c system, which wasn't even connected to the dash and was a complete lie.

There are 4 bolts in the dash on top on either end of the defroster/ac vent holes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the steering column, and for the record they had wayyy too much extra length on the studs which prevented later removal of the dash, so I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and shortened their excess length. They are still usable, and much shorter which made tilting the dash out easy. The last two bolts are on the bottom on either side, where the kick panels are.

As for electrical, you must remove the main bulkhead connectors on engine side (4 total, all shaped different so you dont have to keep track of them), then remove the two bolts holding the connector to the firewall. Then all the electrical connections to the steering column. I also had one wire which ran a grommet throught the firewall and went to one side of the coil. I also pulled the vacuum hose group connector that runs off the back of the a/c selector. Lastly, i removed the kick switch for the high beams (and just kept it with the dash), electrical for stereo (bottom left kickpanel), and the driver door sensor (1973). There's also two connectors that run to the brake switch. The passenger door sensor I had to cut, since it didn't have a connector that I could locate. Also remove the speedo cable! Mine pulled out, good opportunity to lube it for smooth speedo operation. Make sure you remove the hood release and leave it on the floor. Oh and if you have a/c theres a cable that runs to the heater "thingy" on top of the passenger side fender, just remove the cable where it attaches to the "thingy" and pull it through the firewall, as I couldn't see how to remove it from the back of the a/c selector from underneath the console.

For clearance, I removed the steering wheel. I also needed to remove one of the trim peices to the lower right side of the steering wheel. The tricky part is, three or so screws are visible, the other three are accessible if you remove the three screws holding in the ashtray, and you can feel them to the left. The screws are pointed towards you, and it's only like 3 inches before the wall of the panel, so you need a stubby screwdriver and some patience. Other than that, I think it took a buddy to help heave it out. Other than that, I think that covers everything I had to do to get it out. If I think of anything else I will edit it and add it in. Installation is reverse, atleast I hope :)