well picked me up a nice b body 78 cordoba. to nice to crash write yet lol. checked compretion 115 or better all around o yea its a 360 ci.pulled it out gave it a complete gasket kit, oil pump, time chain. threw a good ole coat of ford blue on it threw it back in with some cheap a$$ headman headers on it.i thought i was having probs with the holley 2 barrel carb. had it rebuilt.not much inprovment. went and bought me a a reman carb very little improvment."car bairly run before i pulled it out runs 10 times better after re install".any way i ever threw a points dist in to find prob."yes its a lean burn car". the car idles ruff ,hast to be idled high to run ,hav 3 vac lines thats it no leaks.at a normall stop and go dies fires up.hole shot take off it stumbles then lights them 60s on the back up.......my first ? when i install the fuel line into the brass fitting into the carb should ther be a needle valve in there,the first time i removed it and after rebuilt was not one in thier.remain came same way.this thing is going to get bad thing s dun to it if it dosnt come around

I had an extra 340 block sitting in the garage for a few years. Had it all greased up and covered after I bought it. It had some rust in #5 cylinder but I didn't think it was too bad. I decided to pull it out and clean it up and I took it to the machine shop today. Got bad news. Cylinder was pitted. I was told it probably would not even clean up at .040. They suggested a sleeve. Is it worth sleeving a cylinder? Will it hold up?

Hi Chaps

Wonder if you can help with another newbie question

I have fitted my new edelbrock rpm heads and performer plus cam to my otherwise stock 440 (includes stock rockers / pushrods). So far so good.

Next thing has been to check lifter preload and just want to make sure I’m going it right.

The procedure I’ve been following is:

1. Fit the stock rockers, rods and lifters and torque down the rocker shaft.

2. After picking a cylinder to check I then turn the crank until as best as I can make out I have the inlet valve lifter on the heel of the cam (I did this by looking directly at the cam in the valley)

3. Using a steel rule on the rocker cover edge and a fine marker I then marked a line on the inlet pushrod.

4. Next I unbolt the rocker shaft until the rods are loose (can easily turn using my finger) and then scribe another line.

5. I then tighten the rockers up,* turn the crank until the exhaust valve lifter is on the heel and follow the same procedure.

6. I then remove the rods and measure the distance between two lines on each of the rods – thus giving me the lifter preload / valve

Does this sound right? Is there some trick to ensure I have the lifter on the heel of the cam?

After doing this a couple of times on a couple of cylinders on each bank I have been getting 0.08 – 0.1 on right bank and 0.06 – 0.08 on the left.

I’m going to have another go this weekend but if they come out the same I figure I’m going to need longer pushrods?? I did read somewhere that you can put shims under the rockers shaft but someone over here in the UK said that that was a big no no and that you should always go for new rods (couldn’t really understand why this might be the case)

Lastly I appreciate that I really should be using adjustable rockers but 1. I don’t have the dollar, 2. I’d really like to fit once and not have to worry adjusting again and 3. I only intend to have a relatively mild street motor – no super high reving RPM.

Grateful for any thoughts you might have.

Thanks

what happens to an engine when you spin a bearing? i'm curious i took my truck out the other weekend to show my friend what a beast it is. let it warm up to temp before i left my driveway, took it out and gave it, no big deal. mind you 440, 727,203tcase=all time 4x4. 4.10 gears and 37in tires. came to a stop sign in the county turned right and just let er rip! all 4 tires slid us sideways across the road, and the monster never slowed up! gathered things up and kept goin down the road and noticed a vibration. i've thrown front driveshafts before and figured that was it. driveshaft appears to be fine......start up the truck in my yard now idles great, moves, etc. rpms up over 3000 and i feel a vibration and it sounds different that usual just sitting in the yard. i'm afraid to drive it again without figuring out what may have happend......any ideas where to start? :shrug:

Tinkering in this 65 valiant fastback (barracuda) still assembling stroked 360, 2200 stall, beefed 904. stock one tire fryer rear end. 7.25?
Hoping for suggestions where I may find better gears to stuff in it for the Friday night drags. Hoping I can go capitalize something. Staying baby mopar bolt pattern till I tub it down he road. I don't even know what gears are in it but they're pretty tall.

Thanks
JK

I'm building a rod and want to mount the small block with a mid motor plate. I know guys sell them but I need to make mine custom for the frame. I have use of a mill so I can make the plate I'm just looking for the specs for bolt holes and dowls. As a matter of fact I have the locations of the top 4 bolts I just need the specs for the dowls and lower bolts.

Thanks in advance for any help.

First off I want to thank everyone that gave me advice the first time around with my Duster problems. To others who don't know or for some that forgot I'm the one that had a 74' 318 with 340 X heads and 0 power. I have since put back on my rebuilt original heads, had a 3500 stall put in and 3:55 gears installed. The Duster still sounds like a 8 sec car but I know in my heart that when it was a stock 318 2 barrel it would wipe the floor with they way it is today. I still have on the 650 Holley and have the timing all in at I think 3500 rpm. I can't remember for sure on the timing so don't hold that against me, I had a pretty well season Mopar guy helping me with that. He was just baffled as to why this thing sound meanier than sh*t and just won't get up and go. The guy helping me said that the carb isn't too big, stall matches the cam perfectly, gears are good ratio, timing is good. I still no low-end power even revving the engine to the 3500 rpm range. I still can' even get any wheel spin. I could roast the tires til' they popped when it was stock.

Once again any help or suggestions would be great. Long Live the Mopars!!