hello everyone! I have a little red truck it's original. I need the original carb for it. I am going to restore the truck. what #s do i need to look for.

hey guys,
i have two questions for you.
i came across a 1979 chrysler 300 with an E58 360 im wondering what the factory specs it would have.
question two is i have 340 X heads and would they fit on a that 360

hello everyone, I have a 69 runner with a 383 that i am looking to rebuild again, never let a chevy guy touch your mopar!I learned my lesson, I am looking for around 450-500 hp it will be a street car. this is what i have right now 1970 383 block 0 deck kb 400 pistons .040 over, 440 source stealth heads no port work comp 280 cam,1.5 roller rockers, edelbrock perf rpm intake, 750 demon carb . the car is a 4 spd with 3.55 suregrip. also I will be running hp manifolds with 3 inch pipe from them back. any info on this would be very helpfull thank you

Hello, and let me introduce myself!

Well,
I have come up with a viable solution for those doggone rear mixture screws on the Sixpack/6BBL setups. This was spawned by the need for adjusting my own setup on my '69 1/2 A-12 Super Bee easily and without having to shell out a gob of cash on those "other guys'" billet base plates where you have to remove the thing, swap the butterflies and grind away some of the bowls to still be able to access their "relocated", angled screws. Not only does this detract from the originality but it is a flat PITA! I have devised a long reach tool and special alloy hex-head screws that replace the original slotted ones. By using my tool, which has a ball-end, you can reach the screws from the side and make quick adjustments WITHOUT having to pull the carbs to do so!! Usually, one would adjust the front carb and then swap it with the rear and then adjust it but that is not always foolproof as those of you Sixpack owners have surely found to be the case. Once these screws are in place, the OEM look is still there and any further adjustments are quick and easy!

Necessity is the mother of invention!!

Now you can keep some of your hard earned $$ in your pocket and the originality of your beloved Mope intact! This is an inhancement by a Mopar guy for Mopar guys & gals......enough said.

Now for some of the particulars.

I used blue 1/4" OD Turcite for the handles. The overall length of the tool is 9 3/8" and is small enough to reach through the linkages and long enough to grab easily. I have decided to use the non-compliant, straight shank because it is a bit less "fidgety" to manipulate. With the undercut that I put on the ball end I achieve 25-degrees of compliance which is quite sufficient given the acute angle necessary to gain access to the screw heads. And being that my machined screws are a bit longer than the originals, it easier to "target". The screws are alloy steel and are tough. Not that this should matter but I did it for machinability and longevity. The handles are CNC engraved in one area as to make indexing a breeze. The down side is that even though I can bang these out fairly quickly, I do not have a chucker lathe to my avail so it is a bit time-consuming to make the screws on a single post Hardinge but I have a system in place none-the-less.

I've been doing this a long time so you can rest assured that these are made right and will last.

I have a couple of sets ready for immediate shipping (1 tool & 2 screws) and 6 more in the works by the end of next week.for those of my Mopar bretheren who wish to have these in their "stash".

I am offering these for $45.00 for the tool + the two screws and $60.00 with all four screws...and I'll pick up the shipping within the lower 48!
They will come in a mailer via USPS and will be carefully wrapped in a clear plastic tube which will serve as a sheath to protect it in your toolbox from the other tools that don't want to play nice in there!

I will stand behind them....you don't like 'em, I'll buy 'em back.

I will be listing these elsewhere for a slightly increased price but I want to give you guys the first crack at them since I posted them here first.

Fortunately, (or unfortunately) these will work for the Holley "Tri-power" setups for our fellow hot-rodders with the ties and ovals too so I will hit them up.

PM me if you want a set and I'll get them out.

Thanx!
Bud Weaver
"Six-pack Solutions!"

Does anyone know the pros or cons about putting either the Edelbrock or Mopar aluminum heads on a 74' 318 block.

Also, the reason I'm wanting to put these on are I was told that I'm having issues with a Edelbrock performer intake working with my stock heads because of port mismatching. i was told a good thing a person can do is put the Magnum heads on my block. But I got to thinking and I would have to get new valve covers, headers and make minor valve-train adjustment to make them work. So why not put something lighter on and everything would bolt right up.

Anyone know what these would do to compression on a completely stock block and pistons? Summit racing and Jegs didn't know.

If anyone has tried these are has any suggestions I'd appreciate it.

hello, i have a 73 dodge w100 power wagon i just put a 360 in it out of an rv what are some good inexpensive upgrades i can put in it to get as much power as possible? thank you for all your time and help!

i have a 1973 dodge w100 power wagon an my wiring harness is butchered i am curious as to how i should go about rewiring it if i cant find a used harness? what package should i go with preferably inexpensive? thanks for the help.
Owen

well picked me up a nice b body 78 cordoba. to nice to crash write yet lol. checked compretion 115 or better all around o yea its a 360 ci.pulled it out gave it a complete gasket kit, oil pump, time chain. threw a good ole coat of ford blue on it threw it back in with some cheap a$$ headman headers on it.i thought i was having probs with the holley 2 barrel carb. had it rebuilt.not much inprovment. went and bought me a a reman carb very little improvment."car bairly run before i pulled it out runs 10 times better after re install".any way i ever threw a points dist in to find prob."yes its a lean burn car". the car idles ruff ,hast to be idled high to run ,hav 3 vac lines thats it no leaks.at a normall stop and go dies fires up.hole shot take off it stumbles then lights them 60s on the back up.......my first ? when i install the fuel line into the brass fitting into the carb should ther be a needle valve in there,the first time i removed it and after rebuilt was not one in thier.remain came same way.this thing is going to get bad thing s dun to it if it dosnt come around

I had an extra 340 block sitting in the garage for a few years. Had it all greased up and covered after I bought it. It had some rust in #5 cylinder but I didn't think it was too bad. I decided to pull it out and clean it up and I took it to the machine shop today. Got bad news. Cylinder was pitted. I was told it probably would not even clean up at .040. They suggested a sleeve. Is it worth sleeving a cylinder? Will it hold up?

Hi Chaps

Wonder if you can help with another newbie question

I have fitted my new edelbrock rpm heads and performer plus cam to my otherwise stock 440 (includes stock rockers / pushrods). So far so good.

Next thing has been to check lifter preload and just want to make sure I’m going it right.

The procedure I’ve been following is:

1. Fit the stock rockers, rods and lifters and torque down the rocker shaft.

2. After picking a cylinder to check I then turn the crank until as best as I can make out I have the inlet valve lifter on the heel of the cam (I did this by looking directly at the cam in the valley)

3. Using a steel rule on the rocker cover edge and a fine marker I then marked a line on the inlet pushrod.

4. Next I unbolt the rocker shaft until the rods are loose (can easily turn using my finger) and then scribe another line.

5. I then tighten the rockers up,* turn the crank until the exhaust valve lifter is on the heel and follow the same procedure.

6. I then remove the rods and measure the distance between two lines on each of the rods – thus giving me the lifter preload / valve

Does this sound right? Is there some trick to ensure I have the lifter on the heel of the cam?

After doing this a couple of times on a couple of cylinders on each bank I have been getting 0.08 – 0.1 on right bank and 0.06 – 0.08 on the left.

I’m going to have another go this weekend but if they come out the same I figure I’m going to need longer pushrods?? I did read somewhere that you can put shims under the rockers shaft but someone over here in the UK said that that was a big no no and that you should always go for new rods (couldn’t really understand why this might be the case)

Lastly I appreciate that I really should be using adjustable rockers but 1. I don’t have the dollar, 2. I’d really like to fit once and not have to worry adjusting again and 3. I only intend to have a relatively mild street motor – no super high reving RPM.

Grateful for any thoughts you might have.

Thanks

what happens to an engine when you spin a bearing? i'm curious i took my truck out the other weekend to show my friend what a beast it is. let it warm up to temp before i left my driveway, took it out and gave it, no big deal. mind you 440, 727,203tcase=all time 4x4. 4.10 gears and 37in tires. came to a stop sign in the county turned right and just let er rip! all 4 tires slid us sideways across the road, and the monster never slowed up! gathered things up and kept goin down the road and noticed a vibration. i've thrown front driveshafts before and figured that was it. driveshaft appears to be fine......start up the truck in my yard now idles great, moves, etc. rpms up over 3000 and i feel a vibration and it sounds different that usual just sitting in the yard. i'm afraid to drive it again without figuring out what may have happend......any ideas where to start? :shrug:

Tinkering in this 65 valiant fastback (barracuda) still assembling stroked 360, 2200 stall, beefed 904. stock one tire fryer rear end. 7.25?
Hoping for suggestions where I may find better gears to stuff in it for the Friday night drags. Hoping I can go capitalize something. Staying baby mopar bolt pattern till I tub it down he road. I don't even know what gears are in it but they're pretty tall.

Thanks
JK

I'm building a rod and want to mount the small block with a mid motor plate. I know guys sell them but I need to make mine custom for the frame. I have use of a mill so I can make the plate I'm just looking for the specs for bolt holes and dowls. As a matter of fact I have the locations of the top 4 bolts I just need the specs for the dowls and lower bolts.

Thanks in advance for any help.

First off I want to thank everyone that gave me advice the first time around with my Duster problems. To others who don't know or for some that forgot I'm the one that had a 74' 318 with 340 X heads and 0 power. I have since put back on my rebuilt original heads, had a 3500 stall put in and 3:55 gears installed. The Duster still sounds like a 8 sec car but I know in my heart that when it was a stock 318 2 barrel it would wipe the floor with they way it is today. I still have on the 650 Holley and have the timing all in at I think 3500 rpm. I can't remember for sure on the timing so don't hold that against me, I had a pretty well season Mopar guy helping me with that. He was just baffled as to why this thing sound meanier than sh*t and just won't get up and go. The guy helping me said that the carb isn't too big, stall matches the cam perfectly, gears are good ratio, timing is good. I still no low-end power even revving the engine to the 3500 rpm range. I still can' even get any wheel spin. I could roast the tires til' they popped when it was stock.

Once again any help or suggestions would be great. Long Live the Mopars!!

Just wondering if anyone has any pointers and or comments about my next project...tubbing my 66 Coronet!

This own't be a "spring move" it will entail the whole she-bang!

Thinking about ordering a Comp Engineering kit, fully welded and going from there.:dude:

I'm looking to buy a 68 270 318 dodge dart. I believe. He may take 5000 cash. He wants 5500. Is this a good deal

hi guys; actually its the second time. long story short. built the 440 about ten years ago with a mechanical cam and lifters. now looking to make it hydralic, (tone it down abit make it quieter) anyway bought new cam and lifters, are useing harland sharp adj rokers, questions are , can i use the same push rods if the lenghth is close ; what is the best way to pump up the lifters to get a good mesurement. is there any other things i shood worry about , moter was only ran for about an hour after break in. thanks for any help its really appreciated

hi guys; actually its the second time. long story short. built the 440 about ten years ago with a mechanical cam and lifters. now looking to make it hydralic, (tone it down abit make it quieter) anyway bought new cam and lifters, are useing harland sharp adj rokers, questions are , can i use the same push rods if the lenghth is close ; what is the best way to pump up the lifters to get a good mesurement. is there any other things i shood worry about , moter was only ran for about an hour after break in. thanks for any help its really appreciated

I have a 1968 ply. gtx with disc brakes 11" . I bought a set of rotors off of Ebay witch fit but I can not find dust seal for them id 1.946 od 2.33 .I've tryed CR17110 fits the rotor but not the spindle. the spindles id 1.946 and the rotors od 2.33. number on the rotor 617006.Any ideas ?

OK I have a 1963 383 that I'm rebuilding. I pulled the engine out of a 63 Polara 500 that was a barn find with only 23,000 miles on it. Before you get to excited I shuld say in was only after the barn fell in on top of it that I found it. I was told the barn fell down in the late 90's and the car had been parked in it since the late 60's early 70's. The car body was a total loss but I saved some parts and ebay'ed them a few years ago. I saved the engine and I'm now rebuilding it for a basically stock Dodge truck.

I have built many 383 and 440 with open chamber heads, and with todays gas I always tried to keep compression around 9:1 to run on the street. Now this 383 is really clean on the inside, all the pistons are great and cylinder walls show little wear so I plan to reuse them. They are almost at dech height (only about 0.010 in the hole) I'm running early closed chamber heads and the steel head gaskets so my compression is going to be just under 10:1. Now my question is with a quench area thickness of around 0.031 will I be OK with that compression on pump gas?

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Have similar problem w 73 cuda vibration. smooth until 62 then a steady vibration that gets worse w speed. New tranny, rear gears, posi unit, driveshaft. Wheels balanced. Did not think about pinion angle since did not do anything that would change it.....or at least thats what the restore shop said. Sounds like i may need to do that first before checking axles and going into rear end.

ok! so my 4x4 440 powered truck is backed by a 727. it is an on road, off road mud bog truck that occationally is also a pulling truck hooked to 40,000lbs to see how far i can pull it. now i've already blown the trans in the first 500 miles because the converted let go and sent crud thru the tranny. now it has about a 2800stall, cheetah manual valve body, and bolt in overrunning sprag, new clutchs steels and seals. i know 1st gear burnouts are a no no so i'm wondering with pulling the sled should i put it in 4 lo and 2nd gear or will
4lo 1st gear be ok for this? on the road and mud i have 37" tires pulling the sled i have 31's for wheel speed. motor makes around 500 hp and 4.10 gears. any thoughts on pulling?

also now since this latest rebuild when i first fire up the truck and select a gear it sits unless i bring the rpms up to about 1500 then it slams in gear. after that its great for the entire day no matter how nice or hard i drive it. if i start it and leave it sit 15-20sec then put it in gear its fine. valve body bad or converter leak down??

Want to make my 76 Road Runner with 318 run cooler.Even hot as Texas is this summer.Need to get below 190.Got just a stock fan and no schrowd.The radiator looks small like for a 6cyl.Was told put a clutch fan on it would increase hp but when ask that on a racing forum.Was told the opposite,it robs hp.Well what about a flex fan and aluminun radiator?Anyone have a sheet metal schrowd fabricated?If I can't find one.Winter I can always put cover in front to bring up the temp.

Pulled another 440 from a motor home and wondering what type of info anyoine had for me?

#'s on side of block are 3698830 440 9
tranny looks like a 727 but has a trans brake or something attached to the back almost resmbling a mini torque convertor....any ideas?

Thanks for the help guys!

Hello every one. Joined here hopefully for some insight, I recently picked up an 04 Jeep liberty with the Chrysler 3.7 for my DD. Whenever the motor tires out, id like to rebuild it. Npt looking for serious performance but a little more get up and go then it currently has. o understand it shares the same bore size with its big brother the 4.7, any problems using aftermarket 4.7 pistons? How about the crank and rods? are the stock parts decent enough to handle a bit more power and probably slightly higher compression? Going to have a valve job done, when I have the heads done. don't really want to mess with the computer much, so will probably go with stock cams. and my final question, what all is shared parts between the 3.7 and 4.7? Thanks

Hi there, I'm looking for a dual quad dual plane alloy intake manifold to fit the 383 'B' series engine. I'm unsure if one even exists for this engine, though I know Edelbrock makes one for the 'RB'. I currently have an Offenhauser dual quad manifold on the engine, but it is simply a divided plenum style and not a true dual plane. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

well, i ran into some problems last night, which may actually be a good thing.

im adding AC to my duster, using a shorty sanden compressor, the classic air kit, and a bouchillon six pack ac bracket.

the compressor is trying to occupy the same space as the water bypass outlet port in my victor jr. apparently, there isnt an off the shelf bracket for this setup that WILL clear, so im back to square one.

this picture

came up in this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=150494

this guy is in tasmania, and has done what i have not seen done before.
looking at the picture, he is using a drivers side mounted alternator of GM design, and mounted a shorty SD7 where the alternator used to reside on the passengers side.
it looks like he used to alternator bracket assemblies to do this, so he could adjust belt tension. only thing i cant tell from the picture is wether or not he has power steering. i do. so that will possibly affect my belt routing on the drivers side.
heres what im starting with for this:

i have a spare alternator bracket assembly, so....
it looks like i could use my spare and mount my GM alternator to the same location on the driver side of my water pump. have to adjust for depth of course so i have correct pulley and belt tracking. i would also have to clock it so i could access my power steering pump if it should ever be necessary.

so why cant i make this work with relatively little fab work? it looks in my head that this should be an almost bolt together deal, just having to make some spacers, and possibly a tensioner assembly for riding on the back ( flat) of the v-belt. i have seen a few on factory 60's AC belts, but wouldnt know what to look it up under.

i think that o ciuld realistically do this. i would have to pick up a 4 groove crank pulley for the extra belt to the AC compressor, though, would the grovves line up with the non AC power steering brackets/pullies?

thanks
let the ideas, experiences, and "what i thought about/saw/read about's" fly please.

and if you have done this deal before, share that too. please. with pictures.

michael

Looking for a high performance cam for my 360 LA engine wanting ROUGH idle low end power maybe .500 or greater lift , any suggestions

left the radio and amp on all night and the truck wont start. 1968 383 d100. put cables on it, nothing. bypass solenoid, nothing. check volts 12.05. jump connections on starter, nothing. starter?

This is my first post, even though I have been a member since 2002.
In the building stages of a 30 over 360 what ecu should I use? and what coil?
Im thinking mopar chrome? I have run the chrome on my 72 cuda 340 4spd 292 cam for years works fine.
1972 360
30 405p pistons
mopar 268/272 450/455 cam
double roller chain
windage tray stock 340
71 j heads milled 10 thou hardened seats 3 angle valve job currently getting ported by Jim Laroy. 024 mopar head gasket
air gap rpm intake also getting ported to match heads and gaskets
holley 650 vac sec
stock 70 340 exhaust manifolds
8 blade milidon water pump
recurved stock mopar electronic
727 a little over stock converter shift kit
3:23 sure grip 8 3/4

I am doing a real low-buck rebuild on my 400, and would like to use oversize cast 440 pistons to save some money but still get my static compression into the low 9's.

My question is, how much can the weight of replacement pistons vary from the stock 400 pistons before the current engine balance becomes detrimentally affected? This will help me sort out which pistons I can consider as viable options.

I am not going to be racing this car, just an occasional car show, an occasional high speed pass down the highway, but it's mostly going to be just a nice cruiser/summer driver.

Thanks so much for any advice you can offer.

Hey guys my name is Oli and I am from Iceland, sorry about my bad english typing but i will do my best. I own a Dodge Dart 75 and the engine is a small block 360, bored 030 over, a 340 X steel heads, 12.5 compression and I have just changed head gaskest, I used a copper head gaskest from SCE and the block is O ringed, but when i was putting the coolant on it already started to leak, then i started the engine and it put water in the oil and it seems to me that it olso blows out to the exhaust on cyl 1. Maby i did a major mistake on the assemble or somthing :( With hope for some help from you great guys out there.

Thank´s and best regards Oli

I've seen a lot of info on the 451 stroker. My plan is take a stock 400 bore it .30 and have the 440 crank turned to fit the 400 block. My question is do I use the stock 440 heads . I'm kinda Tryn to keep a budget. After I have the bottom end ready where to I go from there. Would I need to do so much machine work is be better off buying a whole kit or would I be better off just buying the boring a 440 block .30 and getting the edelbrock performance top end kit. I'd like a car I could drive down the interstate but also eat mustang and crap cameros . If you know what I mean. I have a 72 charger so that's a lot of car to move. I need all the help I can get.

Hello.... newbie here. I've got a lot of questions. I know just enough about things to get myself in some bad spots. I just got a 72 charger. It currently has a 68 383 in it. The tranny was out. Well reverse was out and had to rev really high to move forward. So I got another tranny from a mid to late 70's 440 well just figured out my torque converter won't work on it. The once already replaced 727 on the 383 has less splines on the front shaft than the one off of the 440. I don't have a lot in the tranny and also purchased the 440 it was on. What the heck should I do. I could also purchase a mid 70's 400. I have read a lot about the 451 builds but would I be better off to get the top end kit from elderbrock. I want a car to eat mustang and crap cameros. But be able to drive a cpl of hrs away to the car shows. HELP!!!!!!!!

I have 69 coronet 500. It has been converted to wilwood 4 wheel disc brakes, I'm using stock power brake booster which is new with wilwood master cylinder. The pedal his harder than normal but not as bad if the booster was bad. The motor is nothing radical; 318 with mild cam and runs approx. 13-14 inches of vacum @ idle. Wilwood says it's not enough. Anybody have any experience using electronic vacum pump,if so which one???

While I was dynoing my 440, I removed the damper for cam phasing roughly 4 or 5 times with no problems at all. Now that I have it back home, I'm taking it off again so I can change the timing cover gasket and for some reason, it just won't budge. I have even gone as far as heating the hub and using an impact gun with no luck. Any ideas?

i have 68 dart with a /6 that has never ran good i would like to change to a 318 .can anybody tell me if you have to change the k member

Been struggling with the same issue for awhile now. I'm building a mild 1990 360 with bigger cam and some aftermarket parts. The biggest problem I'm having is the whole pushrod thing. I've called local performance shop, Summit, and comp and got basically the same info from all 3 but still not too sure. Basically we put the whole valvetrain in and noticed that the stock pushrods are too long. They would not let us put in the rockers and shaft on the whole way without trying to bottom out the lifter. The motor is set at TDC with the valves being closed (cam is positioning). so we took out the stock p-rods and threw in a comp adjustable. Everything was assembled and torqued down to specs. I then started turning the checker easily until there was no play in the rocker arm, not pushing in on the lifter plunger. I then turned the checker another 1/2 turn (pushing in on the plunger just alittle). I measured the distance between the first attempt(NO 1/2 turn from no play) to (with 1/2 turn from no play) and calculated the two and came up with .030+ between the two. My question is did I do this correctly, and if so, is it safe for me to order new pushrods (1/2 turn included in length). Any help is really appreciated!! Jon

Engine runs rough off idle when vaccumm advance is connected to electronic distributor. Engine smoothes out when vaccumm line is disconnected.

With 3/32 allen wrench which way should I turn adjustment ...are there automatic stops if turned too far?

What should the initial engine timing be set at before fooling with distributor advance?

Gene

I just got done building my 408 note i put about $5500 into this motor. I am wonder if i could have done somthing different or what for hp and money wise.

Dyno: Now this is useing a Roadchester 750CFM Jetted to a 800CFM and some off the wall headers. I plan on going with a holly 750DBL pumper and Dougs Ceramic 1 5/8 headers.
Results:
92OCT 10:1CR Cam SPEC: Lift @ .50 INT 235 EXT 249 VALVE LIFT 522
MAX 439HP @ 5800 RPMS
MAX 500TQ @ 4000 RPMS

Engine parts:
Eagle 408 stroker kit forged everything
RHS Indy X heads with 2.02 valves and stainless valves with HD DBL Valve springs.
Roller rockers with roller tips on a roller shaft.
Cam is a Mechanical/roller cam with the specs from comp camps mutha thumper comp cam grinded this camp and stamp it.
EDDY Perfromer RPM Air Gap intake with portmatching
Stage 3 port and polish with valve grinding

Any help would be great..

I have a 4 speed with 8 3/4 with richmond 4:10 gears and a spool behind this motor.

I have had two B&M quick silver shifters that had the same problem. The stick gets centered and will not select any gear. B&M has been very supportive in replacing the units but has not been able to tell me how to fix this myself. Anyone had a similar problem and know how to fix it?

I am also wondering about experiences with the B&M mega shifter or Z Gate shifter. I think perhaps I should switch to one of those. I don't really need a ratchet shifter.

Thanks,
Doug

It seems that way too often I am burning plug wires. I have a 383 in a 73 Charger, stock heads and Hooker headers. Several of the plugs (8, 3,5,7) sit very close to the headers. I have heat sleeves on the wires at the plug, but it seems that after just several hundred miles (or more realistically hours) I eventually burn a plug wire on the base of the wire insulator end that is on the plug. I have Accell super stock wires. Is there a brand of wire that will absolutely NOT burn even if they touch a header? Its frustrating cause I burn one and need to buy a new set or scrounge for a single wire that will fit.

OK... I have a 1965 Chrysler Windsor with a 361.

I am thinking about doing the overdrive swap so i can put some gear in this car and not rev like crazy down the road.

My question.. since you can get an Ultra Bell adapter bellhousing for just about any tranny combo I have it down to 2 possible trannies to swap..

700R4 Shivvy 4 Overdrive tranny
A518 Dodge Overdrive tranny.

I could car less for brand loyalty for this swap.. I'm just thinking about the ease of the swap.

Give me your opion..

I have a '74 Gold Duster with a 318. I have changed the air intake manifold and carb to an edelbrock 4-barrel 1406.
I am trying to set the timing because I know it is off. My idle is set at about 750-800 rpm when at temp. my problem is that when I set my timing light up and then pull my vacuum hose to my distributor it dies. How can I properely set my timing if this continues to happen?
Any suggestions?

When setting the timing on my 408 stroker I heard what sounded like sparks going to ground. Tonight in the dark my concerns were confirmed. I have sparks from the plug boots to ground and arcing between some plug wires near the distributor and actually saw both the positive and negative pole of the coil dimly lit.

I have an MSD distributor, MSD Blaster coils and MSD wires. Seems to me the wires are a problem. I have a set of 8mm Taylor SST shielded High temp wires for one of my 350 Chevies. I wonder if I should try these.

Has anyone had success with a particular brand and diameter plug wire in this application?

Thanks for your help.
Doug

All,

I am trying to finish up my short block and get it all sealed up so that I can move. Anyways. I have a torrington bearing that is a little large to work with my camshaft and I do not think that I like all those small needles inside my engine when the bearing fails. I was thinking of making a brass wear plate to put between the cam and the block to wear down over time so that the block does not. I know cloyes makes a bronze wear plate, but I think that brass might be better as it is low friction and is softer than bronze. What are your thoughts? Anybody hear of a brass wear plate?

Took my race 318 apart today to inspect the bearings. They are worn threw to the copper in a groove by the edge of the bearing. More than one cylinder was like this but not all of them. What would cause wear like this? Just dirt?

The bearings have 7 races on them. The inside of the engine was very black. When I assembled it I had everything apart and washed with soap and water the best I could.

Attached Images

bearing.jpg (48.5 KB)

I found a 1989 for $200 near Pueblo, CO, but it's already sold. I then found a 1988 in Texas for $125. I presume the block has a roller cam and lifters that do not oil through the pushrods. Are there any differences between a late LA and an early 80's LA that I should be aware of? The block is 90 minutes from my sister's house, so I might have her and my brother-in-law pick it up. Then figure out when to transport it the other 650 miles.