Any idea of what would cause torque converter bolts to begin loosening over time. Using an Art Carr 10-inch torque converter, a B&M flex plate and ARP bolts. Everything torqued properly and using Loc-Tite high strength thread locking compound. The bolts still get loose after a few weeks of daily use. Ideas ?

Hello. I have a 68 G.T.X (440) and am bolting on a the carb I just rebuilt. The gasket in the carb kitthat came with it to bolt to the manifold has a square bore ( open) and my manifold has 4 holes in it. The question is does the gasket have to have the 4 holes to seperate the ports in it just like the intake manifold.It also had a spacer which I was not going to use. Thanks.

My father and I purchased a 440 and 727 out of a motor home. The plan is to rebuild both. The big plans for the motor are: 500 stroker kit and stealth heads from 440 Source. Any recommendations on cam, intake, and carb for this combination? The motor is going to be street driven. Also, any info as for what to do to the trans would be appreciated.

I've got a TQ strip kit for sale on ebay, was sent a message saying they come up several times a year and go for $125. I used to check constantly for TQ parts and don't recall ever seeing another kit for sale, although I stopped checking regularly over the last 8 months. Anybody else found TQ strip kits for sale and know their worth?

B II

Anyone ever used one of their kits to put a 5-speed stick into a '69 A-body with an automatic?

I've had the Mopar electronic ignition conversion on my '69 Dart 340 for about 5 years. Orange box. All of a sudden tonight at anything over 2000 rpm the motor was missisng and backfiring. The tach needle was jumping around like crazy too. So I immediately thought it had to be ignition related. After checking for obvious loose wires, plug wires, etc... I was at wit's end. So then I remembered having a really old orange box someplace. Found it, swapped it in, and the car now runs great again. Is this type of failure typical and do they only last 5 years and less than 5000 miles? Any other ideas?

After a 3-yr. storage, the Mirada went back on the road recently. Only to suffer a trans. failure, (of course it was 40 miles away). And I have never really been comfortable around automatics since I never had to get inside one and figure out how they work. Guess that's gonna change now and I need some direction here.
I do have the FSM for the (82) car, which has a mild 78 360 bolted to the reworked 904LA that was originally in it.
Here's what happened (and still does)
Trans operates normally at start-up. After 1-3 minutes, it starts momentarily slipping/engaging, followed quickly by a no-drive in any fwd. gear. No noise heard when that happens.Reverse might work for one or two applications after that, but then there's a whole box of neutrals. Trans fluid is clean, full, and does not smell burnt.
I will pull the dust cover from the bellhousing to check damage/leaks at the converter face first, but after that I would appreciate some advice regarding further diagnosis.
Because the car has been idle for 3 years (monthly startups and drives around the block only) I suspect dried-out seals/debris in the valve body, but as I said I'm a noob regarding automatics. :info: :info: :help: