hello everyone! I have a little red truck it's original. I need the original carb for it. I am going to restore the truck. what #s do i need to look for.

hey guys,
i have two questions for you.
i came across a 1979 chrysler 300 with an E58 360 im wondering what the factory specs it would have.
question two is i have 340 X heads and would they fit on a that 360

hello everyone, I have a 69 runner with a 383 that i am looking to rebuild again, never let a chevy guy touch your mopar!I learned my lesson, I am looking for around 450-500 hp it will be a street car. this is what i have right now 1970 383 block 0 deck kb 400 pistons .040 over, 440 source stealth heads no port work comp 280 cam,1.5 roller rockers, edelbrock perf rpm intake, 750 demon carb . the car is a 4 spd with 3.55 suregrip. also I will be running hp manifolds with 3 inch pipe from them back. any info on this would be very helpfull thank you

Hello, and let me introduce myself!

Well,
I have come up with a viable solution for those doggone rear mixture screws on the Sixpack/6BBL setups. This was spawned by the need for adjusting my own setup on my '69 1/2 A-12 Super Bee easily and without having to shell out a gob of cash on those "other guys'" billet base plates where you have to remove the thing, swap the butterflies and grind away some of the bowls to still be able to access their "relocated", angled screws. Not only does this detract from the originality but it is a flat PITA! I have devised a long reach tool and special alloy hex-head screws that replace the original slotted ones. By using my tool, which has a ball-end, you can reach the screws from the side and make quick adjustments WITHOUT having to pull the carbs to do so!! Usually, one would adjust the front carb and then swap it with the rear and then adjust it but that is not always foolproof as those of you Sixpack owners have surely found to be the case. Once these screws are in place, the OEM look is still there and any further adjustments are quick and easy!

Necessity is the mother of invention!!

Now you can keep some of your hard earned $$ in your pocket and the originality of your beloved Mope intact! This is an inhancement by a Mopar guy for Mopar guys & gals......enough said.

Now for some of the particulars.

I used blue 1/4" OD Turcite for the handles. The overall length of the tool is 9 3/8" and is small enough to reach through the linkages and long enough to grab easily. I have decided to use the non-compliant, straight shank because it is a bit less "fidgety" to manipulate. With the undercut that I put on the ball end I achieve 25-degrees of compliance which is quite sufficient given the acute angle necessary to gain access to the screw heads. And being that my machined screws are a bit longer than the originals, it easier to "target". The screws are alloy steel and are tough. Not that this should matter but I did it for machinability and longevity. The handles are CNC engraved in one area as to make indexing a breeze. The down side is that even though I can bang these out fairly quickly, I do not have a chucker lathe to my avail so it is a bit time-consuming to make the screws on a single post Hardinge but I have a system in place none-the-less.

I've been doing this a long time so you can rest assured that these are made right and will last.

I have a couple of sets ready for immediate shipping (1 tool & 2 screws) and 6 more in the works by the end of next week.for those of my Mopar bretheren who wish to have these in their "stash".

I am offering these for $45.00 for the tool + the two screws and $60.00 with all four screws...and I'll pick up the shipping within the lower 48!
They will come in a mailer via USPS and will be carefully wrapped in a clear plastic tube which will serve as a sheath to protect it in your toolbox from the other tools that don't want to play nice in there!

I will stand behind them....you don't like 'em, I'll buy 'em back.

I will be listing these elsewhere for a slightly increased price but I want to give you guys the first crack at them since I posted them here first.

Fortunately, (or unfortunately) these will work for the Holley "Tri-power" setups for our fellow hot-rodders with the ties and ovals too so I will hit them up.

PM me if you want a set and I'll get them out.

Thanx!
Bud Weaver
"Six-pack Solutions!"

Does anyone know the pros or cons about putting either the Edelbrock or Mopar aluminum heads on a 74' 318 block.

Also, the reason I'm wanting to put these on are I was told that I'm having issues with a Edelbrock performer intake working with my stock heads because of port mismatching. i was told a good thing a person can do is put the Magnum heads on my block. But I got to thinking and I would have to get new valve covers, headers and make minor valve-train adjustment to make them work. So why not put something lighter on and everything would bolt right up.

Anyone know what these would do to compression on a completely stock block and pistons? Summit racing and Jegs didn't know.

If anyone has tried these are has any suggestions I'd appreciate it.

hello, i have a 73 dodge w100 power wagon i just put a 360 in it out of an rv what are some good inexpensive upgrades i can put in it to get as much power as possible? thank you for all your time and help!

i have a 1973 dodge w100 power wagon an my wiring harness is butchered i am curious as to how i should go about rewiring it if i cant find a used harness? what package should i go with preferably inexpensive? thanks for the help.
Owen