Dad says he's sick of the "tin can" sound when he closes the door(s). What kind of sound deadeners are out there to give it a more solid sound? a google search brings some pretty diverse opinions and results

hi guys,
i have put in a new headliner and have lost the hole for the seatbelt that bolts into the roof rail,i have stuck all my drip rail moulds,and roof rubbers back on and dont want to peel all the hood lining back,can someone give me a location on this mount point and some measurments please:glasses8:

Hello. I read on another evil ebody forum, it was only six bolts to remove a console, and maybe some things unbolted. Boy did he make it sound easy. So I'm doing a quick small write-up on it. Sorry I didn't take pics, didn't know it was going to be this hard. I think that guy who gave the previous advice had dropped his whole steering column too, which could make it easy. He also lied and made it sound like you need to take the coolant out of the a/c system, which wasn't even connected to the dash and was a complete lie.

There are 4 bolts in the dash on top on either end of the defroster/ac vent holes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the steering column, and for the record they had wayyy too much extra length on the studs which prevented later removal of the dash, so I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and shortened their excess length. They are still usable, and much shorter which made tilting the dash out easy. The last two bolts are on the bottom on either side, where the kick panels are.

As for electrical, you must remove the main bulkhead connectors on engine side (4 total, all shaped different so you dont have to keep track of them), then remove the two bolts holding the connector to the firewall. Then all the electrical connections to the steering column. I also had one wire which ran a grommet throught the firewall and went to one side of the coil. I also pulled the vacuum hose group connector that runs off the back of the a/c selector. Lastly, i removed the kick switch for the high beams (and just kept it with the dash), electrical for stereo (bottom left kickpanel), and the driver door sensor (1973). There's also two connectors that run to the brake switch. The passenger door sensor I had to cut, since it didn't have a connector that I could locate. Also remove the speedo cable! Mine pulled out, good opportunity to lube it for smooth speedo operation. Make sure you remove the hood release and leave it on the floor. Oh and if you have a/c theres a cable that runs to the heater "thingy" on top of the passenger side fender, just remove the cable where it attaches to the "thingy" and pull it through the firewall, as I couldn't see how to remove it from the back of the a/c selector from underneath the console.

For clearance, I removed the steering wheel. I also needed to remove one of the trim peices to the lower right side of the steering wheel. The tricky part is, three or so screws are visible, the other three are accessible if you remove the three screws holding in the ashtray, and you can feel them to the left. The screws are pointed towards you, and it's only like 3 inches before the wall of the panel, so you need a stubby screwdriver and some patience. Other than that, I think it took a buddy to help heave it out. Other than that, I think that covers everything I had to do to get it out. If I think of anything else I will edit it and add it in. Installation is reverse, atleast I hope :)

do you install this by bringing it up under the dash. my car never had one. thanks

Dad has all the original chrome trim (or most of it) for the rocker panels and rear chrome that goes on the edge of the trunk and so fourth. We just need the clips to put it all on...

eBay has the clips ~$7.00 for a pack of 10. I know we'll need more than that since they break sometimes. Year one has the same clips, same quantity, for a lot more (as only Year One can...). anyone know of a good place I can pick some of these up for the right price and good quality?

Im looking for pictures of dash caps to see how they actually look once there installed and would also like some feed back on them. PRO'S & CON'S of them (other then they are cheaper then the actually dash pad.....)

Hello all. Gutting the interior and cleaning up things on my project 'cuda. Both seat belts don't work. The retractors are stuck and the belts won't come out. I removed both the exterior housings, and can see the problem. Only those of you that have ventured this deep into these devices will understand, but basically the plastic peice with notches (that either blocks or pushes the flap that stops the retractor) is sliding with too much friction against the belt housing, so any movement on the belt causes it to make the flap stop the retractor. I only have 1/8th inch of room in there when I push them apart, got some wd40 in there and made sure there isn't any junk in there, but didn't relieve the friction at all. Any suggestions for how i can smoothen things out? I can't really get a dremel in there. I don't want to take the assembly further apart really, as I have no idea what's going to pour of there. Thanks for your advice!!