in 1974 i put a msd ign box on my 318 van .it was a direct fit just unscrew connector from old box [which i left on fire/w] and screw connector on to new msd box..id like to buy one again for the 73 duster..does msd still make and sell a box such as this still..does anyone have a part number for this application,,thanks a lot..j

Car in question....1973 Dart Sport, Automatic

History.....dropped in my long awaited/saved-money-for replacement 340. Drove car over to shop for swap, no electrical issues whatsoever.

New engine in........cranks, lights off intermittently, or mostly not at all. Managed to get it running long enough to break in the cam (I hope). Seems to run okay if/when it lights. When cranking, shows low/no voltage at (+) post of coil. I can jump straight from the positive post of the battery to the positive post of the coil, and it will run some of the time.

Ignition switch was intermittent, subbed in another switch, seemed to work better. Disassembled column. put in new switch, now it doesn't start at all.

Ringing out wiring. I'm using a 1974 shop manual/wiring prints, if it matters......the closest I've been able to find at the swap meets around here. Am assuming they are basically the same, other than seatbelt interlock wiring.

Looking at page 8-156...Tracing path for 12 volts to get to the ignition switch. According to the print, wires "R6C 12 BK" (from ammeter) and "R6B 12 BK" splice together with wires "Q3 12 R", " Q3 12 R*", "L1 12 BK" and "J1 12 R". Is the junction of all of these wires on the back side of the firewall?

I'm assuming that "Q3 12 R" doesn't exist in a 1973 model car. Looks to me like I can check the "Start" wiring aft of the firewall (and ignition switch) by ringing for continuity between pins "P" and "Q" on CE 2, as long as....

-I turn the ignition switch to "crank/start"
-I don't turn on the lights and,
-I don't honk the horn

Then, ring thru "P" and "N" to check the wiring/switch in the "run" position.

Then.......it appears that the coil "grounds" thru the ECU. Theoretically, I should be able to get continuity between the (-) terminal of the coil, and a ground on the firewall/fender apron?

Then after that....I'll need a recommendation for a good automotive electrical shop near downtown Kansas City, Missouri. I've been dicking around with this problem off and on since June, and I'm no closer to figuring out WTF is going on than I was on June 30. Or, as much as I don't want to, pitch all the Chrysler stuff, and go with an MSD-6.

Is anyone else having trouble with aftermarket ignition switches?

I've had to buy two replacements from my local O'Reillys. The first lasted a little over a year, then went intermittent. The new one doesn't seem to be working at all.......no 12v (more like 4v) to the coil when cranking

Anyone have a source for a NOS/OEM switch? I'm tired of taking crap apart to replace broke stuff with junk....not to mention complicating the troubleshooting of my other problems. The local dealer used to have a "parts finder" for this old stuff, but they either don't have it (or can't be bothered to use it) anymore.

Also......the "car side" of the flat plastic electrical connector has disintegrated. I've currently got it hard-spliced to try to get the car running, but I'd rather have a disconnect at the base of the column like OEM. Anyone make a replacement for them? P/n from the 1973 PC appears to be either 2983401 or 404

I have a 1969 barracuda with a 318 single wire alternator. I'm only getting 12.2v out of the alternator I have went through the wiring and replaced the alternator and regulator and I got no change. Does anybody have any suggestions?

Can I split it to 2 seperate places and not mess the signal up as it goes to my autometer tach and a MSD shift light?

Anyone know of a power window kit for an a body? I've seen a universal kit but Im pretty sure it won't work.

Im gonna pick up an orange box ignition. But I have a choice between a used original MP part or a brand new repro.

The used one is only $15...i like the nostalgia but would it be better to get the repro.? I think is a melling unit or something (not sure but it's USA) I can get both for 35 but I only want one...im guessing the new one would be 25$ so is it worth the extra $10? Or will the original unit do me right?