I'm having trouble with what i think is the ignition, everytime i start it up when its cold outside it pops and bangs thru the exhaust and it sounds really muddy but it will smooth out once i get the rpms up a little bit, then when it warms up to operating tempature it almost completely goes away but my engine is idling pretty high and i have the idle on my carburetor turned all the way down, what could be causing this?
It's a 360 crate engine magnum in a 1991 dodge power ram, its carburetated fuel injection and computer are gone, the owner before me had the charging system wired up wrong, he had the blue wire coming from the voltage regultor tied into the primary side of the ballast resistor, i was told that blue wire needed to be tied into a 12v ignition source, so i tied it straight into my ecu power wire. Ever since i tied the blue wire from the voltage regulator i fried the original ignition module, i dont know if having the blue wire from VR tied into the ecu power wire caused the module to fail, or if it was already on its way out and failed do to the overcharging that was going on from the previous owner having it wired up wrong.
I am at a loss here.... i do not know what is causing it to run muddy and pop and pop and sputter out the exhaust, the two things that come to my mind first is the timing and then the coil, is it possible i fried the coil with the overcharging? is there a way i can test the coil to find out if it is still good on my own? how many volts should be at the coil while running and all that good stuff? when i timed it i timed it while the charging system was wired wrong because i was not aware of the overcharging problem, is it possible that what sounded good while the overcharging was going on is not working now that the charging system is working right?
I just dont know, timing and coil are the only two things i can think of that are causing this, distributer cap and rotor are brand new as well as the coil and the ignition module, any advice or opinions would be greatly appriciated.

I took the dash out of a 1975 Dart a couple months ago. When it was time to install the dash again, there was a small bulb with a blue rubber cover between the glove box and the radio that I can't find where it goes. Can anyone tell me where this bulb plugs into? It sits in its own socket and appears to provide light for the radio or heater controls. Thanks in advance.

in 1974 i put a msd ign box on my 318 van .it was a direct fit just unscrew connector from old box [which i left on fire/w] and screw connector on to new msd box..id like to buy one again for the 73 duster..does msd still make and sell a box such as this still..does anyone have a part number for this application,,thanks a lot..j

Car in question....1973 Dart Sport, Automatic

History.....dropped in my long awaited/saved-money-for replacement 340. Drove car over to shop for swap, no electrical issues whatsoever.

New engine in........cranks, lights off intermittently, or mostly not at all. Managed to get it running long enough to break in the cam (I hope). Seems to run okay if/when it lights. When cranking, shows low/no voltage at (+) post of coil. I can jump straight from the positive post of the battery to the positive post of the coil, and it will run some of the time.

Ignition switch was intermittent, subbed in another switch, seemed to work better. Disassembled column. put in new switch, now it doesn't start at all.

Ringing out wiring. I'm using a 1974 shop manual/wiring prints, if it matters......the closest I've been able to find at the swap meets around here. Am assuming they are basically the same, other than seatbelt interlock wiring.

Looking at page 8-156...Tracing path for 12 volts to get to the ignition switch. According to the print, wires "R6C 12 BK" (from ammeter) and "R6B 12 BK" splice together with wires "Q3 12 R", " Q3 12 R*", "L1 12 BK" and "J1 12 R". Is the junction of all of these wires on the back side of the firewall?

I'm assuming that "Q3 12 R" doesn't exist in a 1973 model car. Looks to me like I can check the "Start" wiring aft of the firewall (and ignition switch) by ringing for continuity between pins "P" and "Q" on CE 2, as long as....

-I turn the ignition switch to "crank/start"
-I don't turn on the lights and,
-I don't honk the horn

Then, ring thru "P" and "N" to check the wiring/switch in the "run" position.

Then.......it appears that the coil "grounds" thru the ECU. Theoretically, I should be able to get continuity between the (-) terminal of the coil, and a ground on the firewall/fender apron?

Then after that....I'll need a recommendation for a good automotive electrical shop near downtown Kansas City, Missouri. I've been dicking around with this problem off and on since June, and I'm no closer to figuring out WTF is going on than I was on June 30. Or, as much as I don't want to, pitch all the Chrysler stuff, and go with an MSD-6.

Is anyone else having trouble with aftermarket ignition switches?

I've had to buy two replacements from my local O'Reillys. The first lasted a little over a year, then went intermittent. The new one doesn't seem to be working at all.......no 12v (more like 4v) to the coil when cranking

Anyone have a source for a NOS/OEM switch? I'm tired of taking crap apart to replace broke stuff with junk....not to mention complicating the troubleshooting of my other problems. The local dealer used to have a "parts finder" for this old stuff, but they either don't have it (or can't be bothered to use it) anymore.

Also......the "car side" of the flat plastic electrical connector has disintegrated. I've currently got it hard-spliced to try to get the car running, but I'd rather have a disconnect at the base of the column like OEM. Anyone make a replacement for them? P/n from the 1973 PC appears to be either 2983401 or 404

I have a 1969 barracuda with a 318 single wire alternator. I'm only getting 12.2v out of the alternator I have went through the wiring and replaced the alternator and regulator and I got no change. Does anybody have any suggestions?