Classic Mopar Forums » Electrical and Ignition

accidently left charger on battery (over 24hrs)

admin — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 03:22:45 +0000

Battery was on charger from noon yesterday till about 8 this afternoon! It is an inexpensive 10 amp 12v/6v charger. The battery wasn't hot or spewing acid everywhere. Built in voltage shut off?

msd

admin — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:42:49 +0000

Well this is a mind blower. New MSD in a "new" 69 Charger 440. Aftermarket tach, new oem tach; key on, supposed to show msd 6 digital rev limiter rpm. All over the place. Checked wires, called msd; net a tach adapter. $70, still the same, Talked to tech twice. Called back; The voltage on the grey wire should be 1 to 5 volts, we get 5.1 volts. Answer, our bad , send it back, rebuild, and with in a month will ship it back. .1 Volt? 1 month? WTF?

New unit, same crap. Now get this; senior tech: oh yeah, we had problems with then at first. That tach wire would open the fuel injectors, so we disabled it.

Think about it. They didn't change/add instructions, didn't tell the lower people answering the phone?

And are still selling a unit that they know is bad. Tsk Tsk.

I think I like my Mallory better every day.

Magnum swap + magnum starter = problem?

admin — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 04:13:51 +0000

I'm kinda confused by this, but in the process of a magnum 5.9 swap. Have the engine in and bolt up and the starter itself which is from a 96-98 magnum is hitting the block and won't bolt up.

Anyone ran into issues like this? did the magnum starter change over the years?

Stumped

admin — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 01:01:22 +0000

I'm having sending unit problems. New sending unit. I have done all the fuel gauge tests and the guage works. I have voltage to sending unit. I'm grounded to the same place as my fuel pump and it works fine. I've put my multimeter on everything and its all checking out. I even pulled the sending unit out and tested it and it ran the scale like it should.
I can ground it out and the fuel guage will move. I'm out of ideas , maybe the sending unit is faulty?

70 challenger horns

Avalanche — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:08:24 +0000

This may be a dumb question but, I do not have any horns in my 70 challenger and was looking for something aftermarket that somewhat resembles stock.
Does any 12v horn work and do I need 2 (high and low).
If anyone has a picture of a stock set-up that would be great.
Thanks

another bulklhead wire question

admin — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 02:27:50 +0000

little trouble with the wire harness... should I be removing this completely from within the inside or shouldn't it simply free from here??

Seems several wires just don't come along with the clip/fastener/whatever it's called....

Finding switched power…..

admin — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 01:30:30 +0000

When i purchased my 73 Duster, it had an aftermarket CD player in it with new speakers wired. The CD player wouldnt power up at first, and after some handy dandy investigation work I discovered the accessory wire on the radio had not been connected. Does anyone know offhand which color wire under the dash may be switched power to turn the player on when the key is turned forward/backward. The CD player works, as I have touched the wire to the constant and everything works well. Also can anyone point me in the right direction to a wiring diagram? Im in need of wiring for the door/dome light switches as well. Also, are these switches available anywhere?

Kyle

Finding switched power…..

admin — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 01:30:30 +0000

Autometer gauges are ordered- good advice appreciated

admin — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 04:01:04 +0000

I finally bit the bullet and ordered my new autometer gauges from Summit. They are all Sport Comp and electrical gauges, except the speedometer which is mechanical. I also ordered the Lokar 80" speedo cable, which is a little too long, but it was the closest I could find.
Couple of questions I still need answered:

Are the speedometer cable ports on the 727, A833, and 904 transmissions the same? The Lokar cable I ordered fits the 727 for sure, but I have an A833.

Also, can that cable be wrapped behind the dash in a sweeping path, or should I cut it and resolder/weld it back together to fit the car? I don't don't want to get it jammed and ruin the gear in the tranny.

Also, any tips or pointers you all have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

-Mike

How to modify the car audio player power wire so that always ON?

terenkleon — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 22:23:21 +0000

Hi, i have an old car audio player and i wish to modify it so that i can use the power supply from my room power socket and listen in my room. But i check the wire, there are red and yellow. Which one i should connect to the +12V?

T/S lens application

admin — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 03:12:25 +0000

Bought this T/S lens @ a swap meet, and was wondering if anyone knows what car it is from. Don't have a pic yet, will upload one tomorrow.
#'s on it are:2930387 LT.-AMBER 2930679 LT.-CLEAR I believe it's from a '69 dodge? Thanks for any info on this.

ignition problems

admin — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 04:15:51 +0000

I'm having trouble with what i think is the ignition, everytime i start it up when its cold outside it pops and bangs thru the exhaust and it sounds really muddy but it will smooth out once i get the rpms up a little bit, then when it warms up to operating tempature it almost completely goes away but my engine is idling pretty high and i have the idle on my carburetor turned all the way down, what could be causing this?
It's a 360 crate engine magnum in a 1991 dodge power ram, its carburetated fuel injection and computer are gone, the owner before me had the charging system wired up wrong, he had the blue wire coming from the voltage regultor tied into the primary side of the ballast resistor, i was told that blue wire needed to be tied into a 12v ignition source, so i tied it straight into my ecu power wire. Ever since i tied the blue wire from the voltage regulator i fried the original ignition module, i dont know if having the blue wire from VR tied into the ecu power wire caused the module to fail, or if it was already on its way out and failed do to the overcharging that was going on from the previous owner having it wired up wrong.
I am at a loss here.... i do not know what is causing it to run muddy and pop and pop and sputter out the exhaust, the two things that come to my mind first is the timing and then the coil, is it possible i fried the coil with the overcharging? is there a way i can test the coil to find out if it is still good on my own? how many volts should be at the coil while running and all that good stuff? when i timed it i timed it while the charging system was wired wrong because i was not aware of the overcharging problem, is it possible that what sounded good while the overcharging was going on is not working now that the charging system is working right?
I just dont know, timing and coil are the only two things i can think of that are causing this, distributer cap and rotor are brand new as well as the coil and the ignition module, any advice or opinions would be greatly appriciated.

All the lights are flickering

Moparbandit — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 03:56:51 +0000

So its a known fact that most mopars have charging system problems and an abundance of bad grounds and such. That being said where is a good place to start when all the lights in the vehical flicker at an idle or when the turnsignals are on, and brighten and dim depending on where yhour foot is on the throttle... ive already replaced the front engine and light harnesses sooo whats next... oh and it has a promaster alternator on it

you guys have been great so far thanks for all the help

The little blue bulb

admin — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 03:18:24 +0000

I took the dash out of a 1975 Dart a couple months ago. When it was time to install the dash again, there was a small bulb with a blue rubber cover between the glove box and the radio that I can't find where it goes. Can anyone tell me where this bulb plugs into? It sits in its own socket and appears to provide light for the radio or heater controls. Thanks in advance.

msd ign

admin — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 05:03:51 +0000

in 1974 i put a msd ign box on my 318 van .it was a direct fit just unscrew connector from old box [which i left on fire/w] and screw connector on to new msd box..id like to buy one again for the 73 duster..does msd still make and sell a box such as this still..does anyone have a part number for this application,,thanks a lot..j

Riddle me this, Mopar electrical experts…….

admin — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 02:45:27 +0000

Car in question....1973 Dart Sport, Automatic

History.....dropped in my long awaited/saved-money-for replacement 340. Drove car over to shop for swap, no electrical issues whatsoever.

New engine in........cranks, lights off intermittently, or mostly not at all. Managed to get it running long enough to break in the cam (I hope). Seems to run okay if/when it lights. When cranking, shows low/no voltage at (+) post of coil. I can jump straight from the positive post of the battery to the positive post of the coil, and it will run some of the time.

Ignition switch was intermittent, subbed in another switch, seemed to work better. Disassembled column. put in new switch, now it doesn't start at all.

Ringing out wiring. I'm using a 1974 shop manual/wiring prints, if it matters......the closest I've been able to find at the swap meets around here. Am assuming they are basically the same, other than seatbelt interlock wiring.

Looking at page 8-156...Tracing path for 12 volts to get to the ignition switch. According to the print, wires "R6C 12 BK" (from ammeter) and "R6B 12 BK" splice together with wires "Q3 12 R", " Q3 12 R*", "L1 12 BK" and "J1 12 R". Is the junction of all of these wires on the back side of the firewall?

I'm assuming that "Q3 12 R" doesn't exist in a 1973 model car. Looks to me like I can check the "Start" wiring aft of the firewall (and ignition switch) by ringing for continuity between pins "P" and "Q" on CE 2, as long as....

-I turn the ignition switch to "crank/start"
-I don't turn on the lights and,
-I don't honk the horn

Then, ring thru "P" and "N" to check the wiring/switch in the "run" position.

Then.......it appears that the coil "grounds" thru the ECU. Theoretically, I should be able to get continuity between the (-) terminal of the coil, and a ground on the firewall/fender apron?

Then after that....I'll need a recommendation for a good automotive electrical shop near downtown Kansas City, Missouri. I've been dicking around with this problem off and on since June, and I'm no closer to figuring out WTF is going on than I was on June 30. Or, as much as I don't want to, pitch all the Chrysler stuff, and go with an MSD-6.

Ignition switches, p/n 2947486; WTF?

admin — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 23:32:56 +0000

Is anyone else having trouble with aftermarket ignition switches?

I've had to buy two replacements from my local O'Reillys. The first lasted a little over a year, then went intermittent. The new one doesn't seem to be working at all.......no 12v (more like 4v) to the coil when cranking

Anyone have a source for a NOS/OEM switch? I'm tired of taking crap apart to replace broke stuff with junk....not to mention complicating the troubleshooting of my other problems. The local dealer used to have a "parts finder" for this old stuff, but they either don't have it (or can't be bothered to use it) anymore.

Also......the "car side" of the flat plastic electrical connector has disintegrated. I've currently got it hard-spliced to try to get the car running, but I'd rather have a disconnect at the base of the column like OEM. Anyone make a replacement for them? P/n from the 1973 PC appears to be either 2983401 or 404

69 barracuda charging issue

admin — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 20:24:08 +0000

I have a 1969 barracuda with a 318 single wire alternator. I'm only getting 12.2v out of the alternator I have went through the wiring and replaced the alternator and regulator and I got no change. Does anybody have any suggestions?

MSD Tach wire question

admin — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 03:33:31 +0000

Can I split it to 2 seperate places and not mess the signal up as it goes to my autometer tach and a MSD shift light?

Power Window Kit?

admin — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 01:11:51 +0000

Anyone know of a power window kit for an a body? I've seen a universal kit but Im pretty sure it won't work.

orange box question

admin — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 01:19:08 +0000

Im gonna pick up an orange box ignition. But I have a choice between a used original MP part or a brand new repro.

The used one is only $15...i like the nostalgia but would it be better to get the repro.? I think is a melling unit or something (not sure but it's USA) I can get both for 35 but I only want one...im guessing the new one would be 25$ so is it worth the extra $10? Or will the original unit do me right?

Starter Problem 340

go dart — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 15:24:35 +0000

My 70 dart 340 has a starter problem. It won't disengage. I can hear it after startup so turn off ignition and the starter continues to grind away. I have to pull a battery cable to stop it. Otherwise it runs fine. really hope it wont require a new starter cause theres headers. Any thoughts out there?

Dipstick arcing with Alternator

admin — Sat, 27 Aug 2011 09:34:25 +0000

I'm almost positive this can't be right. When the dipstick touches a certain part of the alternator it sparks. It doesn't spark when it makes contact with any part of the alt, but only the part that is hot (I believe). I wish I knew the name of it. This happens when the car is off or on and with the key off or on. Any ideas on this?

Ign Switch 74 Dart sport

admin — Sat, 27 Aug 2011 04:02:05 +0000

Does anyone know how to get the locking steering column star wheel off so I can get to the ign switch? Is it pressed on? Does it have to be compressed & a snap ring removed? I already have the steering wheel off & the turn signal switch but I can't figure it out...HELP!

No Juice to Anything

admin — Sat, 27 Aug 2011 03:53:59 +0000

The Dart just went dead pulling into a lot. Too dark to check it out but there is no power to anything. The soleniond will jump and crank but no fire. I tossed a new ballast resistor (glove box) in but no help. Kind of a pop then electric smell and dead. Electronic ign looked ok, no fried wires, coil was pretty hot. any ideas?
Thanks, c

charging system help!!

admin — Fri, 26 Aug 2011 14:02:22 +0000

I need help with my charging system in my 68 dart. It has had the charging and ingition systems upgraded to the newer electronic . I recently bought the car and put a complete new wiring harness from Year One with the upgrades already in the harness. I canot get the car to stop overcharging like crazy. I have put two different alternaters, 4 voltage regulators all with the same result . I was told that perhaps it was a ground problem so I put two new grounds on the car. Still the same result. I am wondering if the original ammeter in the dash might be part of my problem as I am at my wits end!!

Msd 6+Al

admin — Fri, 26 Aug 2011 11:41:15 +0000

Hi guys i have a msd distributor with the 6 AL box is it right that i dont need a ballast restistor for this one?

Thx Peter

Q about 4 seconds flat FBO

admin — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 07:55:39 +0000

Has anyone experience with this Ignition box?

A bit pricey. But good looking.

Pros and cons?

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html

Q about 4 seconds flat FBO

admin — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 07:55:39 +0000

Has anyone experience with this Ignition box?

A bit pricey. But good looking.

Pros and cons?

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html

Factory fuel gauge not working?

admin — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 02:46:30 +0000

I have a 74 Dart Sport and my factory fuel gauge always reads empty. When I first got the car it would move a bit when you added fuel but now it stays on empty. I want to say my gauge is still good but I'm not sure what could be wrong. Does this car have a sending unit in the tank for the fuel level? How do you replace it? I have this same issue in my 85 W-150 and it needs a new sending unit. Thanks for any ideas you guys may have.

Factory fuel gauge not working?

admin — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 02:46:30 +0000

alternator getting hot!

admin — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 02:42:37 +0000

my alternator got hot , when i left the key for an hour or alittle more and the engine wasnt started. is this normal , 67 cuda . thanks!

E-bay distributor

admin — Tue, 23 Aug 2011 05:18:21 +0000

Anyone ever try one of those HEI distributors off E-bay? They eliminate the ECU, ballast, etc. completly. They are dirt cheap (as low as $59 bucks shipped). I have one on a SBC street rod and the thing has been great so far and the car runs like a raped ape! I would never of tried one but it came with the 31' Tudor Sedan and I am surprised. I am thinking of trying one for the Dodge but want to hear what others think. I don't need a race unit just a little mild street car for the wife to cruise-in.

Thanks

Need a linear 73-10 gauge to match fuel cell?

admin — Tue, 23 Aug 2011 02:21:07 +0000

I have an aftermarket fuel cell and linear 73-10 sender and having the stock gauge off between empty and full is driving me nuts. Anyone know of any gauges that work on the linear scale?

Rallye Dash

fishpwr — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 15:57:09 +0000

I had installed a rallye dash into my 70 cuda awhile ago, it wasn't until recently that I had purchased the Rallye style light bar.
I removed the non-rallye light bar and upon installing the rallye light bar, it lights up as soon as it touches the dash frame (or anything metal), when the key is off or on. All the other lights (dome light, map light...) work fine, any suggestions? thanks~

another component ID needed

admin — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:05:44 +0000

My son and I are in the process of a 73 Duster build. The wiring harness came out of my rusted 74 and is going into the 73 engine bay. This component is near the end of the wire run on the alternator side of the engine bay. I have no idea what it's purpose is. I think it might be part of the ignition system or charging system.

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LED bar graph tach kit?

admin — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:10:40 +0000

I'm looking for a tach kit that allows me to run a series of LED (hidden) in my 67 cluster but really have not found what I'm looking for. Anyone done anything like this? Here is an ebay auction with a digital meter to give you an idea. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...KQ3aMEWAXQ3aIT I only need a circuit board to run a series of LED's that can be dimmed at night.

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admin — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 03:26:55 +0000

Not real happy with autometer

admin — Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:27:15 +0000

NOT REAL HAPPY WITH AUTOMETER right now!! Gauges pictured were well over $1200. "top of the line Autometer." Took lugging stuff to three swapmeets and sittin there all day long to get CLOSE to the $$ needed. Performed the installation EXACTLY as instructed , even called AM tech line to validate installation (just to close the loop.)

When driving the car in & out of the shop and around the block...didnt see much weirdness in any of the gauges...everything seemed to be working as intended. Even a few back & forth from my house to the shop were fine...... BUT really have not driven to any great length until DREAM CRUISE day!!

Started at the extreme north end and took 3 x ways to get there.... hit 55 mph and the speedo started to bounce around from 55 to 140 then to 100 then to 140 then to 55 it was all over the place!!!

Below 55 smooth calm trackin straight ...even asked a few cruisers, at low speeds, how fast they were going and the AM speedo was right on!! The dropped off Woodward and flew down to the Epicenter at 13 & Woodward in Royal oak, nailed it a few times on the "back roads" just to see if it was a fluke...NOPE hit 56 mph all over the board!!!! OK so I have to make calls and find out what is going on....I'll ignore it for the cruise because if you crack 20 mph you are "flyin" during the cruise!!!

NEXT....I fill up with 1/2 tank premium and 1/2 tank turbo blue...farily hefty sum in fuel. I drive not more than 20 miles and my gauge is showing 1/2 tank!!! NFW!!!! I only drove 20 miles!!! My 72 had a 410 gear in it and I could do well past 20 miles before ever getting close to 1/2 tank.... the Cuda only has a 3:55 and I was not bein very heavy in the pedal???? WTF?? so I spend about an hour in the cruise mass....the gauge is now on E !!! DAMN ...OK so I pull into one of the whopping 5 whole stations that are OPEN along the 15 mile route, and who have hiked the prices up to reflect that they are only one of the 5 that ARE open!!! RUn inside drop 50 on the counter and say "fill up"

Head back out to the car and turn the pump on.....squeeze the trigger....fuel is gushing through the nozzle and I am expecting to be standing there for a few mins at least!!! pump shows 6.2 gals and the auto off kicks in....Must be filling too fast, squeeze again...clicks directly off..squeeze again fuel comes gushing out of the filler tube!!! WHAT 6. 8 gals? that is a 15 gal tank?!?!?!? it was ON E!!!! should be taking 12 - 14 gals anyway!!!

NOPE 6.8 gals and she was full to the brim!!!! go get my change and hop back in fire her up...look at the gauge..it reads E!!!! C'MON is this some "twilight zone " episode???...say screw it and head off down Woodward...figure I know how long and how far I have driven ...I should be able to get at least that behind me which will get me through the rest of the day and back to the house..... I look at the gauge 10 mins later and NOW it is reading FULL...excuse me?!?!? my fuel gauge is AFU ALSO!?!?!?! start checking the other gauges all good...... speedo & fuel are hosed giving erroneous readings all over the place.

YA figure for about a lil under 1400 bucks you should get gauges that are substantial and function properly!!! Running out of gas ON Woodward is NOT a good thing!!!! you become an INSTANT traffic issue!!! and you MUST turn your lights on BEFORE you exit the vehicle...otherwise the guy behind you who is burning out will see your brake lights go out and think he has plenty of room & time...the LIGHTS MUST STAY ON or you will get tapped!!!!

SO I am PRETTY FAR FROM OK RIGHT ABOUT NOW and Autometer is sitting on the TOP of my $hit list...I made the IP removable ...but to do it right takes about an 8 hour day of getting EVERYTHING out of the way and being very careful.
I have sent a nasty gram to AM to see what advice they prescribe...but I am guessing it will be "send them in and we will take a look see".... SURE!!! I just snap them out of the dash and POP em in a box and ship em right out!!!

ANYONE else have issues like this with AM? Pretty disappointed and very Miffed about the expense vs the functionality...not a good blend at the moment!!!

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for those who did reply to my post

admin — Sun, 21 Aug 2011 02:25:55 +0000

for those who replied to my post with your comments I want to say this. When I did the post about being a little disappointed, there were no replies yet. not three. check the time. For those who wanted to know the vehicle. read the original post. I stated a 76 Duster. For those who decided to add a remark about the wiring diagram online, I stated I wired it like the diagram showed and it will not work that way. For those who talked about the blue and brown wire on the ballast resistor, I mentioned that all wires were out of the car. The car was dipped. I mentioned I was not a mechanic but I didnt say I was stupid. All I basically asked is where do you find a wire that would be from an ignition source that would be hot in the run pos. and hot in the start pos. I thought some of you may have done this before. I didn't ask for all the smart ass answers I got. If you want to help. I would appreciate it. If you don't, I understand. Oh, and by the way, I did mention something about being frustrated or something of that nature. Give me a break. I don't post here that often. I did find a wire that would start the car and it runs fine but it will not shut off with the key. Back to square one.

horn relay location?

admin — Fri, 19 Aug 2011 14:59:00 +0000

could somebody tell me where the horn relay is on a 72 340 duster? is it part of the door buzzer which is above the left kick panel or no? thanks...

old alternator

admin — Fri, 19 Aug 2011 14:09:36 +0000

How can I clean the old alternator to make it look better? I took it off the car and the exterior looks old and dirty. Is there a way to clean and restore it? I don't need it to look new, just better. It works fine so I don't need a new one.
thanks

old alternator

admin — Fri, 19 Aug 2011 14:09:36 +0000

If a ballast resistor goes is it an indication of a fault

admin — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:31:35 +0000

somewhere , or do these things go bad every year or so . The fuse type thing enclosed in the back was black . I was on the highway when it went , it was dry and hot , just wondering why it went bad .
I also have another resistor that has the back filled in so the resistor is not exposed , is this a better design that the open .backresistor ?

MSD/Starting/Charging Issue, Novice Needs Help

admin — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 02:58:56 +0000

Hey FABO members, you have helped me greatly in the past so here I am again.

The short of it:
A. system not charging, new VR
B. starter cranking like the timing is too far advanced, but it isnt!
C. MSD question regarding 12v to my distributor per diagram supplied by MSD.
It shows switched 12v going to my Mallory Unilite Distributor, the problem is that when you crank it to start the engine the 12v to the distributor is gone, its now in the brown wire (start circuit, old coil wire)....and the car wont start.
When I add the brown wire to the circuit it fires up but the volt meter reads about 10v and the car is running rough.
Something just doesn't seem right.

Can you guys take a look at this diagram of my system and see if you can tell whats wrong. The drawing is showing the brown wire not tied in, as shown, the car will not run. If I take that brown wire (old coil) and tie it to the blue(start) the car will run but its running rough.

Does it look like the VR is wired right?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Greg

wiper problem

admin — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 00:45:12 +0000

Hi. Up until two weeks ago my wipers were working fine, now when I turn them off, wherever they are on the windshield is where they stop. Before they would park at the bottom of the windshield. Is my problem with the switch or the motor? My car is a 1969 Barracuda with 3 speed wipers. Any ideas? Thanks Bobby

68 dart lightbulb

admin — Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:12:23 +0000

can anyone tell me what size the bulb is in the fender mounted turn signal of a 68 dart?

408 stroker with billet msd distributor

admin — Mon, 15 Aug 2011 02:36:39 +0000

Does anyone have suggestions on base timing for this combination or what springs to use for the mechanical advance, dist has no vacuum advance by the way, also what stop bushing are you guys using with these. I am running the mopar performance " .509 " cam with a set of rhoades original lifters. Also do you guys know what kind of timing lights work best with msd igniton boxes?

Brake lights inoperative

admin — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 04:06:14 +0000

Hi guys, my brake lights are suddenly not operating on the 70 Duster.

My tail lights and turn signals do work, so i was suspecting the switch, so i replaced it. Still no brake lights. It got to dark to continue.

I know the wires go into the harness and go down to the connector behind the kick panel, but since the tail lights and turn signals work i am assuming its a problem in the wires somewhere from the switch to the harness itself, would this be correct?

oh and i replaced both 1157 bulbs

74 wiring harness

admin — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 02:28:47 +0000

tryed to start had noo signal to the relay..finally traced it to the connector that plugs into the seat belt module...module is gone...had to jumper the yellow wires in the red connector like a post on here says.....having trouble with the back up lite switch one place for the clutch and the b/l switch wants to go there also..my harness is 74 automatic trans with 3 wires and duster is 73..two wires man ual with wire to ground stud on the relay..how do i wire for clutch and bup/lite switch..please help..tx..j