Author Archive
May
27
what wheels?
Posted by: | CommentsI have a 78 2 dr Fury; (maroon) and want something different from the OEM hubcaps/plain wheels;
I like the "big n littles" look. though unlike my teen and early 20s years (which were during the Reagan years) now a days, though I'd go wide out back and skinnier up front, I'd run the same circumference
(I had 225-75R15s out back with 195/75R15s up front of my 75 Doba, partly because I ran what I could find collecting dust--old stock that I could buy cheaply on the shelves of the Sears I worked at, in the late 80s)
nowadays I'd probably go 245/60s out back and 215/70s or225/70s up front, closer total diameter to each other than I ran back then......
I have a set of 14" Ansen style alum slots; IDK if the 14s will clear the calipers. covering the 10" drums out back won't be a problem.
I also have a PAIR of 15X7 Keystone Klassics and am thinking of looking for a matching pair in 15X6, 15X7 OR 15X8
would these rims look silly on my car?
Squad car wheels (in same color as the body) is another consideration as well as Torq Thrusts;
or the old "nugget" type wheels that were popular in the 80s; I'd like to find a set that was "anodized" red; they had chrome, gold, red, black and blue versions of these wheels back then; if I could find a set now a days;
my kid likes teh old "vectors" or Hurricanes" like the General Lee; and alot of 80s trucks came with.
I like the "big n littles" look. though unlike my teen and early 20s years (which were during the Reagan years) now a days, though I'd go wide out back and skinnier up front, I'd run the same circumference
(I had 225-75R15s out back with 195/75R15s up front of my 75 Doba, partly because I ran what I could find collecting dust--old stock that I could buy cheaply on the shelves of the Sears I worked at, in the late 80s)
nowadays I'd probably go 245/60s out back and 215/70s or225/70s up front, closer total diameter to each other than I ran back then......
I have a set of 14" Ansen style alum slots; IDK if the 14s will clear the calipers. covering the 10" drums out back won't be a problem.
I also have a PAIR of 15X7 Keystone Klassics and am thinking of looking for a matching pair in 15X6, 15X7 OR 15X8
would these rims look silly on my car?
Squad car wheels (in same color as the body) is another consideration as well as Torq Thrusts;
or the old "nugget" type wheels that were popular in the 80s; I'd like to find a set that was "anodized" red; they had chrome, gold, red, black and blue versions of these wheels back then; if I could find a set now a days;
my kid likes teh old "vectors" or Hurricanes" like the General Lee; and alot of 80s trucks came with.
May
27
photoshop anyone? (wheel choice)
Posted by: | CommentsI'm wondering how a couple different sets of wheels would look on my 78 Fury 2 dr; (maroon; IIRC the paint code is R7?)
I have a pair of 15X7 Keystone classics; and having a few parts advertised for sale currently on CL, and I put a few "MAY TRADE FOR" hints on there along with prices on my parts; another pair of these same wheels are on that "may trade for" list.
If it would look "silly", I may list them for sale instead.
how bout a set of Ansen style alum slots? how would they look? I also have a set of those, though mine are only 14" versions. trying to "use what I got"
would Squad car wheels look better? I have access to a set of those but with the "solid" hubcaps, not the "holey" version. I'm thinking that painted body color that would look cool with RWL tires; I wish I could find a narrow pair and a wider pair (2- 5-1/2 or 6" wide, 2-8"-8-1/2" wide....)
Torq-Thrust?
Plain old Chrome Reverse or Chrome "smoothies" with "Baby Moons"?
I like the big n Little look whichever way I go ("period correct" dating back to my early 80s high school days; I'm thinking 245/60s in back and maybe 215/70s on the front.
I remember a rootbeer colored 78 or 9 Cordoba with some "E-T" (I think; maybe I'm wrong on the wheel brand) mags, a car that was quite a regular in that shop for oil changes, brake work, alignment "checks" (remember "lifetime" alignments"?) but I remember liking how those wheels looked on that car.
My kid was thinking "Vector" or Hurricane" (think General Lee or even mid 80s Trucks) but I think, "naaaaaah".
I have a pair of 15X7 Keystone classics; and having a few parts advertised for sale currently on CL, and I put a few "MAY TRADE FOR" hints on there along with prices on my parts; another pair of these same wheels are on that "may trade for" list.
If it would look "silly", I may list them for sale instead.
how bout a set of Ansen style alum slots? how would they look? I also have a set of those, though mine are only 14" versions. trying to "use what I got"
would Squad car wheels look better? I have access to a set of those but with the "solid" hubcaps, not the "holey" version. I'm thinking that painted body color that would look cool with RWL tires; I wish I could find a narrow pair and a wider pair (2- 5-1/2 or 6" wide, 2-8"-8-1/2" wide....)
Torq-Thrust?
Plain old Chrome Reverse or Chrome "smoothies" with "Baby Moons"?
I like the big n Little look whichever way I go ("period correct" dating back to my early 80s high school days; I'm thinking 245/60s in back and maybe 215/70s on the front.
I remember a rootbeer colored 78 or 9 Cordoba with some "E-T" (I think; maybe I'm wrong on the wheel brand) mags, a car that was quite a regular in that shop for oil changes, brake work, alignment "checks" (remember "lifetime" alignments"?) but I remember liking how those wheels looked on that car.
My kid was thinking "Vector" or Hurricane" (think General Lee or even mid 80s Trucks) but I think, "naaaaaah".
May
17
rear main doable in car?
Posted by: | CommentsI have a buddy w/a 70 Convertible Cuda with a 383 that claims to have blown his rear main seal (I have not yet seen the car since he called me on this to verify) I have pulled the pan on a truck and on a couple C bodies in the car. How doable is this on an E body?
May
05
think I have been duped again (Ebay)
Posted by: | CommentsA few weeks ago I did some front end work on my truck. (all new bushings, ft springs and shocks) I was looking on Ebay and saw a seller that had some new MOOG (but "ancient" stock) tie rods idler arm (I need that NOW) for the truck, as well as some front end parts that will certainly fit my other cars. So I bid on like 7 items from this same seller; I won 6 of the 7 auctions; I was on the road when I remembered that the sale was coming due (or had done so) At a truck stop in Wyoming along I-80 I called a buddy back home (I had no computer access, at the Continental Divide; I don't own a laptop either, haha) and asked him to check the status of my bid-on items and asked him top send the seller a note to say that "I have not forgot but am out of town, will take care of as soon as I get home";
He got a reply from the seller, that there was no problem and thanks for the note; I REFUSE to do anything via paypal, as I resent putting my CC info out online regardless of "security"; I got ahold of teh seller and w/o my asking she sent me her address to send payment to if I did not want to do PP. SO I went and got a MO and sent it out within the next day or 2. This was a Tuesday, so I figgered she'd have it by Saturday.
the following Monday I E mailed teh seller asking about whether she'd gotten paid. Nope. We swapped E mails daily asking the same thing; finally after 2 weeks went by, and still supposedly no payment recieved, I went and got the cash (we're talking almost $80. here. and got it to my buddy across town that sent the E mail saying that I was outta town. I was tired of waiting out the USPS and needed the parts.
I had my buddy PP the seller the $80 for the parts so I'd stay "clean" with Ebag.
this was last Thurs; (4-29) she told me Friday (4/30) that the PP had come thru and gave me a shipping number and said my parts would be sent Saturday. still supposedly no MO showed up there (California) I got the parts yesterday; considering she'd shipped them Saturday I was surprised the got here that quick.
so today I call the MO company; (Money gram, bought at WalMart) went thru their automated crap, "pushed 1" til the button probably don't work no more; and now they tell me that the MO was cashed on 4/29; the same day as I had my buddy PP her a "2nd payment"; I had already left good FB because she was being cool with me that long after the sale ended and still (supposedly) no payment recieved.
so after sending a $77 MO and havcing a buddy send her an $80 PP, I finally get my stuff; the final sale price incl shipping was $76-"something"(I don't remember the change offhand, I just rounded it off to the nearest dollar) and I know my buddy sent the $80 via PP, I saw him do it. and the seller acknowledged recieving the PP.
I just E mailed the seller to say that I'd gotten the parts and to notify her that I knew the MO had been cashed; still waiting for a response; but I think I've heard "the end" from her end, and am just "out" the money.
I got 2 inner TRE's for 9.99 (for the PAIR); 2 outer TRE's again $9.99 (again for 2 of them); idler arm for the truck; yup same price; also idler arms for both my Fury and one of my F bodies; and a set of upper cont arm bushings (both sides) for the Fury; each "lot" was $9.99/ea. X6 lots for a total of $59.94 with shipping the total was $76-something; I was the only bidder on all that stuff
the only lot I "lost" (which woulda been "lot #7") was a pair of upper BJs for one of my cars (Late B's and F-M-J's take the same upper BJ's) and yeah it was still a good deal at the price I paid, (counting the "double payment") it wasn't the deal I made.
I have my fingers crossed that she "did the right thing" and went and got another MO and sent me one back. I would not mind her "shorting" me like say $10.00 for her trouble but I better get something back out of the deal!!!
He got a reply from the seller, that there was no problem and thanks for the note; I REFUSE to do anything via paypal, as I resent putting my CC info out online regardless of "security"; I got ahold of teh seller and w/o my asking she sent me her address to send payment to if I did not want to do PP. SO I went and got a MO and sent it out within the next day or 2. This was a Tuesday, so I figgered she'd have it by Saturday.
the following Monday I E mailed teh seller asking about whether she'd gotten paid. Nope. We swapped E mails daily asking the same thing; finally after 2 weeks went by, and still supposedly no payment recieved, I went and got the cash (we're talking almost $80. here. and got it to my buddy across town that sent the E mail saying that I was outta town. I was tired of waiting out the USPS and needed the parts.
I had my buddy PP the seller the $80 for the parts so I'd stay "clean" with Ebag.
this was last Thurs; (4-29) she told me Friday (4/30) that the PP had come thru and gave me a shipping number and said my parts would be sent Saturday. still supposedly no MO showed up there (California) I got the parts yesterday; considering she'd shipped them Saturday I was surprised the got here that quick.
so today I call the MO company; (Money gram, bought at WalMart) went thru their automated crap, "pushed 1" til the button probably don't work no more; and now they tell me that the MO was cashed on 4/29; the same day as I had my buddy PP her a "2nd payment"; I had already left good FB because she was being cool with me that long after the sale ended and still (supposedly) no payment recieved.
so after sending a $77 MO and havcing a buddy send her an $80 PP, I finally get my stuff; the final sale price incl shipping was $76-"something"(I don't remember the change offhand, I just rounded it off to the nearest dollar) and I know my buddy sent the $80 via PP, I saw him do it. and the seller acknowledged recieving the PP.
I just E mailed the seller to say that I'd gotten the parts and to notify her that I knew the MO had been cashed; still waiting for a response; but I think I've heard "the end" from her end, and am just "out" the money.
I got 2 inner TRE's for 9.99 (for the PAIR); 2 outer TRE's again $9.99 (again for 2 of them); idler arm for the truck; yup same price; also idler arms for both my Fury and one of my F bodies; and a set of upper cont arm bushings (both sides) for the Fury; each "lot" was $9.99/ea. X6 lots for a total of $59.94 with shipping the total was $76-something; I was the only bidder on all that stuff
the only lot I "lost" (which woulda been "lot #7") was a pair of upper BJs for one of my cars (Late B's and F-M-J's take the same upper BJ's) and yeah it was still a good deal at the price I paid, (counting the "double payment") it wasn't the deal I made.
I have my fingers crossed that she "did the right thing" and went and got another MO and sent me one back. I would not mind her "shorting" me like say $10.00 for her trouble but I better get something back out of the deal!!!
Apr
27
360′s; why did they….
Posted by: | CommentsI have had several vehicles over the years; mostly 318 powered a few 360s mixed in, (usually swapped out for 318s; I have done a few swaps the "other" way too; only 1 for myself though, and only because of what was "available" at the time)
On paper a 360 should STOMP a 318; over 10% more displacement, longer stroke, etc; but nooo; the only place a 360 has out done 318s (for the way I have used them) is that I can usually pass a few gas stations with a 318; less so with a 360;
Yet, driving the same vehicle, with both a 318 and a 360 between the fenders during my ownership, I never really noticed much "reduction" in power on these cars when I "downsized"; (talking stock motor vs stock motor with intakes and carbs being the only deviations)
one glaring problem with 360s; why did Mopar see fit to castrate every 360 they built since '71 with DISHED pistons? Yeah I know that 318s didn't get to "zero-deck" but they were flat tops none the less; and then put larger chambered heads on them to reduce that further???
Stock wise 360s always have lower CR than 318s of the same-year;
seeing that the ECM (computer) on my son's 89 Ramcharger comes back as teh "HD" version, that means that this engine has an advertised CR of.... 7.7:1! (even the non HD was only advertised at 8.1:1) and with "advertised" head chamber volumes usually coming out larger than advertised I'm thinking the CR is actually less! what are we talking; 7.4 actual????
I can definitely see an engine overhaul in the not too far future on this truck, for that reason! I can see "more power", even if all we do, is to put in a set of flat top pistons that "top out"
within ~0.060-0.075 of "zero-deck"! and do the rest of it back to "stock". IDK if we will be going "much" farther unless we ditch the TBI for a 4 bbl; but even at that, if that's the extent of internal mods there should be a noticeable jump in power!
On paper a 360 should STOMP a 318; over 10% more displacement, longer stroke, etc; but nooo; the only place a 360 has out done 318s (for the way I have used them) is that I can usually pass a few gas stations with a 318; less so with a 360;
Yet, driving the same vehicle, with both a 318 and a 360 between the fenders during my ownership, I never really noticed much "reduction" in power on these cars when I "downsized"; (talking stock motor vs stock motor with intakes and carbs being the only deviations)
one glaring problem with 360s; why did Mopar see fit to castrate every 360 they built since '71 with DISHED pistons? Yeah I know that 318s didn't get to "zero-deck" but they were flat tops none the less; and then put larger chambered heads on them to reduce that further???
Stock wise 360s always have lower CR than 318s of the same-year;
seeing that the ECM (computer) on my son's 89 Ramcharger comes back as teh "HD" version, that means that this engine has an advertised CR of.... 7.7:1! (even the non HD was only advertised at 8.1:1) and with "advertised" head chamber volumes usually coming out larger than advertised I'm thinking the CR is actually less! what are we talking; 7.4 actual????
I can definitely see an engine overhaul in the not too far future on this truck, for that reason! I can see "more power", even if all we do, is to put in a set of flat top pistons that "top out"
within ~0.060-0.075 of "zero-deck"! and do the rest of it back to "stock". IDK if we will be going "much" farther unless we ditch the TBI for a 4 bbl; but even at that, if that's the extent of internal mods there should be a noticeable jump in power!
Apr
27
WTB computer for 89 RC
Posted by: | Commentslooking for engine computer 4379899 or possibly 4379923
the "899" supersedes to a reman; R4557391. these are both 89 Truck, 360, TBI, the "899" I guess is "std", 49-state" the '923 is "HD emissions" version. the current Cali-spec computer in the truck comes back as 89, 360,TBI, "HD" emissions I have reason to believe the computer is "bad" (going thru the flow chart) but now that the truck is NOT in Cali (and won't be again) I'd get a 49-state version as long as I gotta change the computer anyway.
"Plan-B" is to remove the TBI entirely and revert to a 4 barrel TQ-based carb conversion.
the "899" supersedes to a reman; R4557391. these are both 89 Truck, 360, TBI, the "899" I guess is "std", 49-state" the '923 is "HD emissions" version. the current Cali-spec computer in the truck comes back as 89, 360,TBI, "HD" emissions I have reason to believe the computer is "bad" (going thru the flow chart) but now that the truck is NOT in Cali (and won't be again) I'd get a 49-state version as long as I gotta change the computer anyway.
"Plan-B" is to remove the TBI entirely and revert to a 4 barrel TQ-based carb conversion.
Apr
25
computer for Ramcharger
Posted by: | Commentsapp is 89 RC, 360, 727 I am looking for computer 4379899 or 4379923. anyone have one layin around?
