Classic Mopar Forums » volaredon

can I ask a Shivvy Q? (O2 terminology)

volaredon — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 18:35:50 +0000

This would be my son's, girlfriend's sister's truck.
00 S10 (Sonoma maybe?) 4.3 a/t, clubcab 2WD.

my son asked me to pop my scanner (Snap on MT 2500) on to see why the Check engine lite was on; (shoulda asked if I looked like Autozone, checking codes etc ha ha ha ha)

Anyway if there is one thing I have found since overpaying for this scanner 9 years ago, it is that although everything else in the aftermarket seems to "equate itself to GM compatibility" for lack of a better way to put it, this scanner dont seem quite as user friendly on GMs as Mopars things like the scanner telling me to disconnect the battery to clear GM codes vs doing it by 1 button on a Mopar etc;

In this case if we were talking about a mopar or jeep it would always differentiate O2's by "upstream/downstream" on the display making it easy to tell which O2 we were talking about.
This one lists "bank 1 sensor 1 bank 2 sensor 2 and bank 1 sensor 3;

When I bring up "live data" it shows data for 3 sensors;
I never looked under from the pass side, but I see 1 on Y pipe on driver side and 1 downstream.
the code says "heater circuit Bank 1, Sensor 3, O2"

Where is the bank 1 Sensor 3 O2 located?????

and why did they have to run the steering column shaft dead smack across the #3 spark plug? (seperate question from reason for post)
shows GM's "Dumb-assedness" for sure!

727 build

volaredon — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 03:32:27 +0000

this on an 89 RC, 360 4WD; owned and driven by my 18 yo son;
we drove this thing back from Vegas to Chicago last April; reciept for a $1500 trans rebuild from a "Cottman Transmission"; 300 of which was $150 for an external cooler and $150 to put it in; rebuyild 4 or 5 years old (don't remember which; not looking at the reciept at the moment; but currently, only somewhere around 10K miles, since this "screwing" the PO took; he had the truck sitting as "non op" at a friend's house when we bought it;

A couple months ago, he started getting ATF puddles ahead and behind the RF tire; I know theres no cooler lines etc nearby; I suspected it was blowing out the dipstick tube, but each time it would do it the stick was seated; not blown off its seat; well it did it again and this time the stick was 6" out from the tube; I know that's either a plugged filter or a plugged vent; so I had the kid do a fluid/filter; chunks of what looks like parts of thrust washers atop the filter;
They had a note about "play in the rear end causing clunk" on the bill; I checked it, and have seen worse slop in other 9-1/4s that had less backlash clunk than this one has; now that I saw the filter I now know better; (wanna redo the rear end anyway since I have a Sure Grip for it sitting here but not important to this post; I do have everything here to do so)
When we got home from Vegas, the fluid was found to be LOW; (yes it was checked before we left for Illinois) NSS was less than finger tight; as were most of the pan bolts; inspection plate also missing. I saw enough signs right off, NOT to trust a Cottman shop if the situation ever came up; or at least stand over them and watch what they do, if I "have" to out on the road; (they don't have any here in IL, anyway)
I learned to rebuild a 727 on my old 75 Doba about 25 years ago. I could never get a tranny to last a month in that car.I found out why once the car was gone. it was something stupid simple.....
I also have a dealer buddy to fall back on, but he only knows one way (by the factory service manual) though he has been building trannys 20+ years and gets dang few comebacks either thru the dealer shop or all the ones he's done at home (which have been many!) I can do em but I need to borrow the tools once I open it up anyway so I usually do them now at his place with him within earshot "just in case" I forget how something is supposed to go.

What I want, is to do this job ONE TIME, and ONLY ONE TIME; this isn't a race truck, it has never been off roaded (probably wont be either, as my son is too "proud" of this truck) but I want something HEAVY DUTY that will stand up to the occasional time he has something on the tow-ball, and remember he IS an 18 year old. Plans are to beef the 360, for torque, starting with flat top pistons to boost the compression a bit and a couple step-over RV cam even if that means a swap to a carb and away from the crappy TBI. This truck isn't going anywhere anytime soon. if he should tire of it and want something else, I'm 1st in line.

What are the best tricks to upgrade a 4WD 727 (non lockup too!) beyond stock? No head snapping shifts, though I wouldn't mind it being nice and "firm". the truck is still mobile, I want to find a rebuildable core and get it ready before the current one dies completely.

best choice for new truck bed

volaredon — Mon, 27 Jun 2011 00:10:11 +0000

My 83 is still in way better shape then even some '03s here, in the rust belt (I am surprised but definitely not complaining)
but it is starting to show rust beyond the chrome trim on the bedsides; the cab and front clip, floorpans and rockers are still solid.
I have NO plans on parting with this truck at present; unless I find a 89-93 Cummins truck w/a good body a 5 spd and a "give a way" price;
(not likely I just looked at a 92 clubcab 4WD that the idiot wants $15k for; he bought "right", from a car lot, with resale intention) not in this lifetime; so meanwhile my 318/727 truck stays.....
I don't need one exactly today, but I happen to see a couple possibilities available you gotta get while the gettin is good;
I have 2 replacement beds available to me; which way would YOU go?
1) stock rust free 81-93 Dodge truck bed come up from Texas by a guy that used to go down monthly and bring back rust free beds cabs etc and sold them alongside his vegetable/fruit stand;
or, 2) fiberglass "utility" bed, 4X8 open area, but high sides and compartments/doors galore.... like something you'd see on an electrician's truck or a plumber's truck....
Both about the same distance from me (opposite directions of course) and both have the same "asking" price.

I had considered a flatbed with a headache rack such as I had previously (like 15 years ago) which did me well; "loaded" meant the tires were as close to the underrside of the oak floor as I felt "comfortable"; usually if I could get my hand between tire and bed I was OK to run with it; (this truck was a 79 D 100 shortbed)
the only problem? It was higher off the ground unloaded, meaning it was harder to load/unload.... higher to lift stuff off the ground. but way more room to load stuff than the stock bed.

Both 1) (stock rust free bed) and 2) (utility bed) are the same money; if I bite on either, I am leaning towards going with the utility bed.....

propane?

volaredon — Wed, 02 Mar 2011 04:09:26 +0000

I have a lead on "most of" what I will need to put propane power on my 318 carb'd truck; have not yet seen it IDK if it's a dual fuel or dedicated propane; does anyone here know anything about propane power beyond that engines powered by them are generally very clean inside?
Looking to "play around" and do some experimentation.

manual trans paarts source?

volaredon — Wed, 02 Mar 2011 04:06:04 +0000

this is a 97 Wrangler with a 4.0/5 speed (AX 15) Synchro's are dead but once in gear no weird noises. where can I get a kit for a stick trans? I can find them all-day long for an auto.

plastic dye?

volaredon — Sun, 20 Feb 2011 02:11:05 +0000

This happens to be on my sons Ramcharger; but my 78 Fury could use some "freshening up" too, as its interior plastic is, too, faded and I have a hodge podge of interior panels for the Volare, that I eventually hope to turn all 1 color.

Being a Vegas area truck for the 1st 20 years of its life, what has not faded away on the RC is brittle and cracks by "looking" at it. The blue seats, carpet and dash are still in good shape. I went junking this morning and the yard I was at had an 87, 2-90 and a 92 RC's to choose from; 2 with maroon and 2 with "slate gray" interiors. I picked the best interior plastic from each truck, and put together a "set" for the kid (I still hafta get back there and get the door panels)
What I wound up with was a mix of maroon and gray interior plastic that I'd like to paint/dye, a fairly close to original (for the kid's truck) shade of blue. especially since the outside is painted 2-tone blue.

What is available for interior plastic dye? And no I am not interested in Krylon "Flourescent" crap. Any special flex additives, primers, or "special instructions when dealing with plastic to make sure the color-job holds up?
How well is the "cover-ability" going over a panel molded in a different color?

We have the interior apart on the RC to put in the new stereo and speakers that I bought him for Christmas, plus his CB and a couple other "trinkets". so now's the time to "clean up" the interior and put something back in better than we took out. (hence my junkyard run today)
it's been 18 years since the last RC was built (not counting the next gen Mexican-market trucks) so I had to take what pickins were available, getting good crack free panels, was priority over getting ones that were the same color.

anybody build a trailer lately? (legal BS)

volaredon — Thu, 11 Nov 2010 15:10:48 +0000

Illinois has done it yet again. I have a buddy who just sold his house and is moving out of state later this month; he may be onto something here.
Illinois cannot find it within itself, to make anything easier on its residents only more difficult.
I have had a 6X10 utility trailer for a dozen years or so; I've had a couple others too over the years incl one that was made out of the back half of a 67-72 Chevy pickup; who hasn't seen that before?

well my old 6X10, has been torn down and rebuilt 3-4 times since my Dad got it in the 80s; it started out as a popup camper that my Dad bought for $50 with rotten canvas and tore that canvas off, so just a "box" was left, and put a plywood, hinged top on it; when he was done with it, that trailer went to sit in the weeds at my brother's house, til I decided I needed a trailer. (like 15 years later) so I stripped it down to the frame and put wood planks on it; I had a "utility" trailer. My Ma couldnt find the title, so I went and did what my Dad had done 15 years before; I went to the DMV and titled it as a "home made" trailer; for all intents and purposes it was; I took it down to bare bones and welded it back together adding in extra supports for its new intended use; hauling mowers around. I have rebuilt that thing 3 times in the years since, modifying it to my then current needs. mostly because I didn't want to give the State any more $ than I have to, I was the title and registration money ahead with the trailer I had... It was already registerd and plated so I didn't have to redo that. I was "that much" ahead of the game by not selling it and buying/building a different one.

Earlier this year, I decided that no matter what I ever did to it, that old trailer was still too "light duty" with its 2" square tube axle and dinky 4.80X12 tires, so I sold it. with its title and everything.

My buddy who's moving, offered me a replacement for free, since he had to clean up the yard. this one has brakes, 15" 6 lug wheels, and is a tube rather than (thin) channel and angle iron frame. If I didn't take it, he was gonna scrap it. This one used to be a 16-foot camper and not a popup ntype as my old trailer had started out as. Sometimes free is too expensive.

I cut it down 3 feet, moved the axle forward 2 feet, cut the thin gussets from the outside of the framerails and the folding camper step off too, then added 2X3 rect. tube "extensions" a foot long out each side of the frame and a few more "studs" (3" channel) than it originally had, going cross-ways at 2' intervals; originally they were only at 4' intervals.
.
the size of my old one was never a problem, just the light duty-ness.
I ended up building this one into a 77" wide (73" wide inside the side rails)X13' long trailer; the last 18" of which I turned into a dovetail. (2X4 rectangular tube) I V'd from the bottom, pushed the frame down, and welded teh now-narrowed "V", dropping that last 18" 3-1/2" over that span. so the flat "deck" is 11'6" long.
The tires and fenders are "inside" the rail much like a "fleet side" or conventional pickup truck bed. I have 59" between the fenders.
I went to the local farm store and bought fenders; I went to a local semitrailer repair place and bought a ton of LED's I bought a "break a way" for the brakes; (from what I've read, I guess all trailers w/ brakes built since '04 have to have this)
I went thru a whole 11 lb spool of 0.030" MIG wire plus a lil more. (I replaced that with a 44# spool, it'll take me a lil longer to use that up, heh heh)
I also built myself a 40"X75" drop gate; thanks to another buddy who works at an expanded metal warehouse who got me a piece 5'X8' for the floor of the ramp gate. (for free I might add) I just finished that part yesterday. I put a rail full length around the front and sides, 12" above the floor surface. top rail itself made of Unistrut. I still need flooring, which is gonna be either treated 5/4 deck material or rough sawn oak.

Now HERE comes the problem. and it's a doozie.
Used to be, all I had to do was go to the DMV and tell them I needed license and title for a home made trailer. A few forms and a few more $$$ than I think it is worth changed hands, I walk out with a temporary plate til my official one came in the mail; I could use it immediately. Well starting this year it aint that easy no more. All license and title, renewals etc went up cost wise significantly this year. Theiving bastages.... $100 for a renewal sticker for each car and truck up to 3/4 ton, title transfer went from $65 to $100, and so on.

and when it comes to a home made trailer? If you have one that you titled before 2010 you are fine; I have not heard of them going after trailer owners to back check them like this; but for home made trailers from 2010 on, now you have to fill out a ton of paperwork, incl a bill of materials, an affidavid (I dont remember what that pertains to I'm not looking at the packet) and at least 4 pix, showing all the safety stuff, license bracket and such; it has to be up to the latest (greatest has alot of debate on the table) and wait... 6 to 8 weeks for an appointment with the Sec of State cops who if they "like" it will put a metal tag on it (ID/"vin" number). Then and only then will they issue a title and therefore plates, in the meantime I have a 6'X13" (wait a minute, it's closer to 17' long incl the tongue) lawn ornament, tripping hazard etc because I can't use it for anything else til that inspection.
If you have something that you need rated for over 5000# you need to take it for a DOT inspection BEFORE bringing it to the state inspection!

I have called the Sec of State who referred me to their police div., who does these inspections and they refuse to answer any questions for me; I found out that from where I live, I have 2 possible inspection stations they could send me to; one within a couple miles of O'Hare airport, an area I avoid like the Plague because of the traffic nighmare; and the other about 100-120 miles the other way.... I guess "they" decide which one. They couldnt have me take it to the local DMV which is "crawling" with Sec of State cops or the weigh station along the highway since they also are the ones taht run those... that would be too easy. I will get a temp license plate good for like 10 days around the inspection time ONLY TO BE USED to drag it to the inspection lane... what I wanted was info about what it will take to pass; what are they most critical of; I have alot of time and materials wrapped up in this damn thing just to have a lawn ornament; and I refuse to take it on a 200 mile round trip to be refused what I am there for! I DON'T wanna go there and have them tell me I did something wrong, didn't do it to the proper extent, etc so as to be refused registration and have to bring it home and then back AGAIN..... I want to know what it has to have to make sure it passes the 1st time. they wont answer. they keep ducking my questions and giving me round-a-bout BS. and it has to be "done" put the full bounty of work and $$$ into it so it hurts more when they tell you it's unacceptable; no way to head off a bad build "at the pass".
Let this be a warning to Il members here that are also building or considering building their own trailer.

I don't get it; why all the BS and complication; I chalk it up to Illinois being Illinois. Put it this way; if it is their goal to keep someone from saving a few bucks and building something instead of buying I think it may have worked; I won't ever put myself into a position of having to go thru taht again; I'll buy a dilapidated one with a title already and rebuild that.

If you convert a boat trailer, cut a pickup truck in half and build a trailer from that, strip an old camper, etc; they want the old title from its original maker and they issue a "reconstructed" title not a "home made" one; I guess that's a different taril of red tape, I'm supposed to have that info coming; if you got no title with it? then you gotta get a "bonded" title; W-T-F is THAT?????

As far as brakes; IL law says that any trailer <3000GVW doesn't have to have them; so I wasn't gonna use them. there is no ID on the frame or axle as to a rating but the axle does have brakes; If I tell them it is <3000 GVW will they still black flag me for non functional brakes since the trailer has them? I went to the local farm store and looked at all the trailers they had; the closest to mine has a listed GVW of 2990#, and no brakes.... so going by that I should not need them either.
But according to a local truck accessory/trailer hitch/trailer dealer that I have been to looking for odds and ends for this thing, by the descripition of the axle I have he said it sounds like a 35-3600# axle going by the fact it has 10" brakes and 6 lug hubs. which if I go by that it puts me into the next higher weight class which does need brakes (and the yearly plate renewal is more too), but still below the 5000# rating I described above; that's the 3rd "tier" of trailer weight ratings, as they go, here.
I have regular "car" tires on it at the moment; will they refuse me for not having "trailer" tires on it?

What a headache; I will have a much better built trailer at a cost of less than 1/3 of what that one at the farm store goes for but aLOT of running around and Bull $#!t. Is it worth it? I don't know yet.

Rant time; Privacy policy gone amuck

volaredon — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 16:28:59 +0000

In our house IDK how it wound up this way but though our TV/Internet and home phone are in "my" name and our cell (same company!) is in the wife's; which makes it impossible for me to do anything with the cell, even a renewal;
Our cell "contract" expired 2 months ago; I wasnt in a hurrey to renew; I liked not having "early termination fees" hanging over my head in case I wanted to go elsewhere; well I (again) broke my phone--that's 3 in just over 2 years now; our kid is on #2 also; so I wanted "Construction grade";
I found the one I wanted online (none of the AT&T stores had any in stock) and ordered 2; one for me and 1 for the kid; he's the one who turned me onto the "construction grade; before that I had not heard of them;
I wanted the Motorola "Tundra" (actually a Military grade" phone) and got 2; one for me and one for the kid.
Anyway I found someone that had them, and ordered while the gettin was good; and ordered a 3rd (different from mine and the kid's) phone for my wife; well later that day I saw some online reviews saying the one I ordered for her was a big POS; so I called the local AT&T places who confirmed that they stopped offering the one I ordered for her for "that" reason;

So I called the online place I ordered from; and changed the phone that I ordered from them for her; I placed the order; put it on MY credit card (the bill comes in my name) and caught them in the "picking" stage; before they'd been packed and shipped; but here comes teh rub; I had to put the order in her name since she holds the contract that I renewed;
so they would not change "phone #3" on my order w/o her getting on the phone saying to do so; I ordered, I paid but I could not change it? WTF?

I give my wife full authority to speak on my behalf and she gives me the same on her behalf; we pay our bills from teh same checking account; both names are printed on teh check; what's next; they start refusing payment because an account is in "my" name but she signs the check to pay the bill? I mean, we are married and share the checking account; we don't live like simple "room mates" with seperate everything!

Then this morning; I called them again (the online cell phone company) because the phones I ordered took a big price dive over the weekend; I mean I was still waiting on UPS to bring them (they are here now) and all I was wanting was to make the price adjutsment and credit my CC account; not to change the order; and AGAIN they told me they will adjust the price ONLY if my wife calls and makes the request; we're talking a difference between paying $300 for these phones or $100 for these same phones; I was gonna refuse the shipment from UPS and reorder them at the new prices taht took effect between the time I ordered and the time I recieved them; (one is now "free" with renewal, which I did)
we used to have a BP/Amoco gas credit card; it was in "her" name; I say "used to" since we cancelled it after a similar hassle; I saw the bill and a questionable charge; I called the 800-number; and they saw and recognized the charge; and agreed to remove it "only if" SHE called to request the removal of the charge; again; WTF?
My Dad worked for US Steel and was often on the road; Mom wrote out all the bills and made the needed phone calls; often made calls to set up Dad's next airplane tickets for his business trips; if we had to wait for Dad (since everything was in his name) to make all the calls to "approve" anything we would have never had anything, growing up.
Now a days my wife works (if you call it that; retail is a low paying thankless field that sucks) and I am on disability; so I find myself dealing with much of the household day to day BS; things like this make it damn inconvenient to do so and makes it almost impossible to actually accomplish anything with her having to "OK" anything I try to do;

a couple F’s for sale

volaredon — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 13:32:13 +0000

First off I have one in the classifieds; solid rust free 76 Aspen 2 dr SE. 318 904, col shift, 7-1/4 working AC (has been 134'd) runs would run better w/a carb rebuild (accel pump issue) just under 100K miles
My garage is packed beyond capacity and I need SPACE to continue on the Volare.

and 2) the other day I had to take my Mom to the Dr and took a different way; saw a 77 RR for sale; 318 factory NON A/C, buckets, 8-1/4, console, same robin egg blue as my 76 (but white int instead of darker blue like my car) but ROUGH. new gas tank pally rims, and it IS a real RR. Not my car but I do have the # somewhere (I had the wife write it down) price; "MAKE OFFER".

what wheels?

volaredon — Fri, 28 May 2010 03:38:06 +0000

I have a 78 2 dr Fury; (maroon) and want something different from the OEM hubcaps/plain wheels;
I like the "big n littles" look. though unlike my teen and early 20s years (which were during the Reagan years) now a days, though I'd go wide out back and skinnier up front, I'd run the same circumference

(I had 225-75R15s out back with 195/75R15s up front of my 75 Doba, partly because I ran what I could find collecting dust--old stock that I could buy cheaply on the shelves of the Sears I worked at, in the late 80s)

nowadays I'd probably go 245/60s out back and 215/70s or225/70s up front, closer total diameter to each other than I ran back then......
I have a set of 14" Ansen style alum slots; IDK if the 14s will clear the calipers. covering the 10" drums out back won't be a problem.
I also have a PAIR of 15X7 Keystone Klassics and am thinking of looking for a matching pair in 15X6, 15X7 OR 15X8
would these rims look silly on my car?

Squad car wheels (in same color as the body) is another consideration as well as Torq Thrusts;
or the old "nugget" type wheels that were popular in the 80s; I'd like to find a set that was "anodized" red; they had chrome, gold, red, black and blue versions of these wheels back then; if I could find a set now a days;
my kid likes teh old "vectors" or Hurricanes" like the General Lee; and alot of 80s trucks came with.

photoshop anyone? (wheel choice)

volaredon — Fri, 28 May 2010 01:51:51 +0000

I'm wondering how a couple different sets of wheels would look on my 78 Fury 2 dr; (maroon; IIRC the paint code is R7?)
I have a pair of 15X7 Keystone classics; and having a few parts advertised for sale currently on CL, and I put a few "MAY TRADE FOR" hints on there along with prices on my parts; another pair of these same wheels are on that "may trade for" list.
If it would look "silly", I may list them for sale instead.

how bout a set of Ansen style alum slots? how would they look? I also have a set of those, though mine are only 14" versions. trying to "use what I got"

would Squad car wheels look better? I have access to a set of those but with the "solid" hubcaps, not the "holey" version. I'm thinking that painted body color that would look cool with RWL tires; I wish I could find a narrow pair and a wider pair (2- 5-1/2 or 6" wide, 2-8"-8-1/2" wide....)

Torq-Thrust?
Plain old Chrome Reverse or Chrome "smoothies" with "Baby Moons"?
I like the big n Little look whichever way I go ("period correct" dating back to my early 80s high school days; I'm thinking 245/60s in back and maybe 215/70s on the front.

I remember a rootbeer colored 78 or 9 Cordoba with some "E-T" (I think; maybe I'm wrong on the wheel brand) mags, a car that was quite a regular in that shop for oil changes, brake work, alignment "checks" (remember "lifetime" alignments"?) but I remember liking how those wheels looked on that car.

My kid was thinking "Vector" or Hurricane" (think General Lee or even mid 80s Trucks) but I think, "naaaaaah".

rear main doable in car?

volaredon — Tue, 18 May 2010 03:08:23 +0000

I have a buddy w/a 70 Convertible Cuda with a 383 that claims to have blown his rear main seal (I have not yet seen the car since he called me on this to verify) I have pulled the pan on a truck and on a couple C bodies in the car. How doable is this on an E body?

think I have been duped again (Ebay)

volaredon — Wed, 05 May 2010 21:00:29 +0000

A few weeks ago I did some front end work on my truck. (all new bushings, ft springs and shocks) I was looking on Ebay and saw a seller that had some new MOOG (but "ancient" stock) tie rods idler arm (I need that NOW) for the truck, as well as some front end parts that will certainly fit my other cars. So I bid on like 7 items from this same seller; I won 6 of the 7 auctions; I was on the road when I remembered that the sale was coming due (or had done so) At a truck stop in Wyoming along I-80 I called a buddy back home (I had no computer access, at the Continental Divide; I don't own a laptop either, haha) and asked him to check the status of my bid-on items and asked him top send the seller a note to say that "I have not forgot but am out of town, will take care of as soon as I get home";
He got a reply from the seller, that there was no problem and thanks for the note; I REFUSE to do anything via paypal, as I resent putting my CC info out online regardless of "security"; I got ahold of teh seller and w/o my asking she sent me her address to send payment to if I did not want to do PP. SO I went and got a MO and sent it out within the next day or 2. This was a Tuesday, so I figgered she'd have it by Saturday.
the following Monday I E mailed teh seller asking about whether she'd gotten paid. Nope. We swapped E mails daily asking the same thing; finally after 2 weeks went by, and still supposedly no payment recieved, I went and got the cash (we're talking almost $80. here. and got it to my buddy across town that sent the E mail saying that I was outta town. I was tired of waiting out the USPS and needed the parts.
I had my buddy PP the seller the $80 for the parts so I'd stay "clean" with Ebag.
this was last Thurs; (4-29) she told me Friday (4/30) that the PP had come thru and gave me a shipping number and said my parts would be sent Saturday. still supposedly no MO showed up there (California) I got the parts yesterday; considering she'd shipped them Saturday I was surprised the got here that quick.

so today I call the MO company; (Money gram, bought at WalMart) went thru their automated crap, "pushed 1" til the button probably don't work no more; and now they tell me that the MO was cashed on 4/29; the same day as I had my buddy PP her a "2nd payment"; I had already left good FB because she was being cool with me that long after the sale ended and still (supposedly) no payment recieved.
so after sending a $77 MO and havcing a buddy send her an $80 PP, I finally get my stuff; the final sale price incl shipping was $76-"something"(I don't remember the change offhand, I just rounded it off to the nearest dollar) and I know my buddy sent the $80 via PP, I saw him do it. and the seller acknowledged recieving the PP.
I just E mailed the seller to say that I'd gotten the parts and to notify her that I knew the MO had been cashed; still waiting for a response; but I think I've heard "the end" from her end, and am just "out" the money.

I got 2 inner TRE's for 9.99 (for the PAIR); 2 outer TRE's again $9.99 (again for 2 of them); idler arm for the truck; yup same price; also idler arms for both my Fury and one of my F bodies; and a set of upper cont arm bushings (both sides) for the Fury; each "lot" was $9.99/ea. X6 lots for a total of $59.94 with shipping the total was $76-something; I was the only bidder on all that stuff
the only lot I "lost" (which woulda been "lot #7") was a pair of upper BJs for one of my cars (Late B's and F-M-J's take the same upper BJ's) and yeah it was still a good deal at the price I paid, (counting the "double payment") it wasn't the deal I made.
I have my fingers crossed that she "did the right thing" and went and got another MO and sent me one back. I would not mind her "shorting" me like say $10.00 for her trouble but I better get something back out of the deal!!!

360′s; why did they….

volaredon — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:34:22 +0000

I have had several vehicles over the years; mostly 318 powered a few 360s mixed in, (usually swapped out for 318s; I have done a few swaps the "other" way too; only 1 for myself though, and only because of what was "available" at the time)

On paper a 360 should STOMP a 318; over 10% more displacement, longer stroke, etc; but nooo; the only place a 360 has out done 318s (for the way I have used them) is that I can usually pass a few gas stations with a 318; less so with a 360;
Yet, driving the same vehicle, with both a 318 and a 360 between the fenders during my ownership, I never really noticed much "reduction" in power on these cars when I "downsized"; (talking stock motor vs stock motor with intakes and carbs being the only deviations)

one glaring problem with 360s; why did Mopar see fit to castrate every 360 they built since '71 with DISHED pistons? Yeah I know that 318s didn't get to "zero-deck" but they were flat tops none the less; and then put larger chambered heads on them to reduce that further???
Stock wise 360s always have lower CR than 318s of the same-year;
seeing that the ECM (computer) on my son's 89 Ramcharger comes back as teh "HD" version, that means that this engine has an advertised CR of.... 7.7:1! (even the non HD was only advertised at 8.1:1) and with "advertised" head chamber volumes usually coming out larger than advertised I'm thinking the CR is actually less! what are we talking; 7.4 actual????
I can definitely see an engine overhaul in the not too far future on this truck, for that reason! I can see "more power", even if all we do, is to put in a set of flat top pistons that "top out"
within ~0.060-0.075 of "zero-deck"! and do the rest of it back to "stock". IDK if we will be going "much" farther unless we ditch the TBI for a 4 bbl; but even at that, if that's the extent of internal mods there should be a noticeable jump in power!

WTB computer for 89 RC

volaredon — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:27:46 +0000

looking for engine computer 4379899 or possibly 4379923
the "899" supersedes to a reman; R4557391. these are both 89 Truck, 360, TBI, the "899" I guess is "std", 49-state" the '923 is "HD emissions" version. the current Cali-spec computer in the truck comes back as 89, 360,TBI, "HD" emissions I have reason to believe the computer is "bad" (going thru the flow chart) but now that the truck is NOT in Cali (and won't be again) I'd get a 49-state version as long as I gotta change the computer anyway.

"Plan-B" is to remove the TBI entirely and revert to a 4 barrel TQ-based carb conversion.

computer for Ramcharger

volaredon — Mon, 26 Apr 2010 03:40:03 +0000

app is 89 RC, 360, 727 I am looking for computer 4379899 or 4379923. anyone have one layin around?

I want to kill somebody

volaredon — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 01:50:57 +0000

I was duped at a local tranny shop. screwed but good. and people always ask me why I never take anything in and pay to HAVE done for me. perfect example of why right here.
I have been working on my nephew's car; 88 T Bird w/a 302.
he needed a tranny swapped out (among other things but I won't get into that part of it; nothing to do with this story) I have never worked on a Ford "AOD" transmission; I've done fluid/filter on several, had a hand in replacing a couple over the years that's about it.
His was acting like it had a Hellacious stall in it, or it was being Neutral dropped; from a stop it would not engage til it had alot of revs behind it, then SLAM.... so I knew the trans was plum wore out (car has 224K on it; trans I removed was a reman already but not recent at that)

so I get Tranny #1; I see the linkage don't match the one I removed from the car; so not being familiar with AOD's I took both the removed tranny and the replacement I'd gotten into a tranny shop to have the linkage swapped. I told them to go ahead and replace the tailshaft seal and front pump seal for "insurance", that I would not have a "leaker" once I installed it. well it didn't leak but considering what did happen I think I'd have rather had a leak to fix, once installed.
Replacement tranny #1 came from a reliable source, someone I completely trust that if he tells me it's good, well then it's good. a family friend I have known ~20 years and have worked with alot in the past.
cost me $90 ($30 parts rest labor) for what I described to be done at the shop, plus they put a filter and gasket on though I had already bought them for this trans elsewhere.

I install #1; will not upshift. not til Redline. no matter how "easy" I feather the gas. I PM'd Trannyman for suggestions, as well as I returned to the tranny shop that I'd had swap out the linkage. they gave me a "shoulder shrug" and a "well; didn't that trans come from a 'yard or something? That's what you get from those places sometimes".
so this time I did go to a 'yard. paid $250 for Replacement trans #2; again needed to swap linkages to work with this car. so this time I decided to see if I could do it myself. wound up an easy task. BUT here I found out that I'd been screwed. there is a piston, that at this point IDK what its function is; in the far driver front corner of the tranny case accessible with the pan off, held in by a snap ring. I had Repl.#1 and Repl #2 standing up side by side on my tailgate serving as a "makeshift workbench"; as soon as I pulled the pan on Repl.#2 to access the linkage that needed changed I saw that it had this piston that Repl 1 did not (just a "hole" in the case where there should have been something) this piece has NOTHING to do with the needed linkage swap. and I know full well that the source of Tranny #1 would not have removed it; and neither did I. it had to be the tranny shop. thinking that I'd bring it there for a bench rebuild and they'd get me for more $ (if I didnt blow the engine trying to get it to come out of 1st gear)
so the tab so far; $90 to the shop $250 to the yard for Tranny #2 $25 for a wasted case of fluid (that I put thru replacement #1) and just pertaining to the trans swaps (remember I'd done other work to the car as well), 4 or 5 trips back n forth to my Mom's at 60 mi each round trip, about 13 MPG, gas right around $3/gallon. plus my time to R&R 2 trannys from this POS. Yeah they got me good. I was up there today, pulled trans #1 and brought it back here to put the linkage into Tranny #2 and (if it don't rain as they are calling for) I get to go back up there AGAIN tomorrow to install Tranny #2.

here’s why I HATE paying anyone to “have” something done

volaredon — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 01:50:57 +0000

what were they thinking? TBI IS GARBAGE!

volaredon — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:35:45 +0000

ok this is the 2nd 88+ Mopar truck with TBI that has been thru my hands; the 1st was my 88 D 100 this one is (my son just bought) 89 Ramcharger;

on the 88 (318, shortbed 2WD) it always ran fabulous; but I could not ever get over 8 MPG no matter what I did. I replaced EVERYTHING in the system, some things multiple times, rebuilt the engine all stock (except for 0.030 over) damn that roller cam was expensive; did find 2 cracked heads ('302 casting) which I did replace; though they didn't seem to hurt how it ran any, this was hands down my thirstiest pig I'd ever owned so I wound up selling it because I was sick n tired of spending money on it trying to make it better on gas; (my current 318 powered 3/4 ton does 14 MPG pretty easily with 4 pin ECU and a 4 barrel)

now my son bought this Ramcharger; 89 360 727 4WD rust free Southwestern truck (I know that for a fact since we went out there and brought it back to IL, ourselves) and it clogged the cats, we had to cut em off along the road to get the vacuum gauge to stop going to positive pressure when throttle opened; I could NOT keep it running what so ever unless I had the pedal to the metal; it runs so pig rich that the rear bumper chrome is blue and purple like an old T bucket with chrome headers; I could not run more than a couple minutes with the window open or my eyes would fry from the exhaust; and it got a whole 6-7 MPG on the 1800 mile trip home all over the highway; Full out max speed was anywhere between 50 in passing gear (and struggling at that) to 80 sometimes; there were times going DOWN a steep grade, that with the pedal to the metal it was all it could do, to get 60MPH out of it! It was on-off-on-off either dumping full rich-then nothing, surging all the way home; it was surging and cutting out so bad from about the middle of Iowa the rest of the way east, I was continually watching the banks of I 80 wondering where I could leave it if it croaked til I could come back for it; worse the closer to home I got; til the last 15 miles where the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on and it mysteriously ran great that stretch;

My son was following me in the Wrangler; it was pretty bad when the Ramcharger would go thru 3/4 of a tank, while the Wrangler would go thru about a 1/2 tank; it gets worse when you consider the truck tank is 30 gallons and the Jeep is only 19!

Along the way I put cap, rotor, wires, plugs, dist pickup, capped any questionable vac lines, (cracked/leaking) flipped the EGR valve 180* to block it off, changed the fuel pump in a truck stop parking lot, (THAT was "fun") cut out the cats, and it had spells of running "better" but still not "good"

I'm tired of the TBI again already; I am so ready to put a 4 barrel onto it! I do have both a couple extra AFB's (one genuine Carter 500 CFM one CarterBrock 600-625, whichever it is; and a TQ sitting here; and an extra Mopar electronic distributor; I'm an only intake and a fuel pressure regulator away, from having all I'd need to make that swap.

is there a better option? If it was a Magnum I can deal with that FI setup; I can definitely deal with a carb quite easily; but this damn TBI has ALWAYS given me fits; I have heard of guys claiming 20MPG from them in 318 2WD applications but from my exp I have to call BS on that claim.
Being fully straight highway from Vegas to chicago I fully expected the same 14 MPG from this truck as my 83 3/4 ton is able to get. NOT 1/2 of that.... IF I can find a 49 state computer at a pic n pull for ~$25 (it is originally a Cali truck) and I take the injectors to the local Bosch injection place for a flush and test, (they cannot be plugged as much fuel as it cost me to get the truck home) that will be $15 per injector; beyond that this TBI will be scrapped for a carb!
HELP

Arrgh; wheel lock headaches

volaredon — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 03:03:09 +0000

well, my son just bought an 89 Ramcharger; we drove it cross country upon buying it (well almost; Vegas to chicago) damn good thing we had no tire issues along the way; the seller didn't have the wheel lock key; claims he never had the tires off in 4 years of ownership; the tires had great tread but lotsa dry rot in the sidewalls;

Anyway we got home and I went to check the brakes; truck has some nice 16" Alcoa wheels on it; but it had 4 Mc Gard, splined lugs on it; PER WHEEL!!! I got most off, by pounding a socket onto them; a few were stubborn and the socket slipped; so pound a smaller socket on; 2 studs on the RF spun as I tried to thread the locks off; (found out they'd been changed with undersized-at-the-spline studs; whoever had done so, even tried to wrap the studs with Teflon tape to take up the space;) got the impact out and was able to get all of them off that wheel with pounded on, undersized sockets.
Then for the LF; 3 studs spun; the hub had chisel marks from attempts to "stake" the studs; got off all but 1; had to 1st drill the center of the stud then Dremel the stud out, from the inside out, towards the wheel lock; got it close, then was able to FINALLY take a 5' prybar and "pop" the wheel off

when I 1st jacked up that corner had another "oh $#!T" moment; seemed it "blew" a front wheel bearing, and the wheel was flopping like crazy; no wonder it got so squirrely somewhere between Lincon and Des Moines and hard to keep between the lines in 1 lane; the outer bearing nut had come loose and was buried against the splined piece within the hub that lockls the axle to the rotor; which allowed the inner bearing retainer nut to loosen as well; I wound up cutting the hub just "outboard" of the outer wheel bearing racewith a 3" cutoff wheel, so I could get on the outer nut with a pipe wrench; it appears the outer 2 threads on the spindle, were "jimmied" (I'm so glad it didn't burn up the spindle) I'd gotten another set of hubs yesterday "just in case" at the U pull near home for like $10.50; I wound up needing it! I'm gonna wind up going back for at least 1 spindle; (someone has already stolen other parts from the front diff)

what a way to spend 6-1/2-7 hours. I thionk if someone wants my wheels that bad, that's what I pay insurance for. I told the kid that, If I catch another wheel lock on it while he owns the truck, "he is on his own".

So what did i miss??? been on the ROAD!

volaredon — Mon, 12 Apr 2010 00:15:51 +0000

my son and I drove to Vegas and back this past week; he bought an 89 Ramcharger (360) and I got a 76 Aspen(2 dr 318, A/T) from the same guy. Ran into some EFI headaches on the truck (swapping to a 4 barrel sounds great right now but I THINK I have the TBI setup straightened out) it was running pig-rich; the back bumper is now blue and purple like motorcycle chrome exhaust; that's how rich it ran. Being home today I finally (think) i got it "licked"; watch for updates in the truck section esp, if I don't.

what a difference new bushings make

volaredon — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 05:54:29 +0000

I just finished replacing every bushing in my front end on my 83 D 250; along with ft coils, shocks, and brakes incl calipers and hoses;
I went with poly bushings and between rubber vs poly and old vs new, I can't believe the difference in how it handles! I decided on poly because of cost (less than OE rubber though you do need to reuse the orig bushing shells) and because I liked the results on my now departed Cherokee. It don't sound "ready to fall apart" anymore either; and no more 1-1/2" drop, towards the front driver side; I actually have CLEARANCE in the wheel wells for the 235/85R16 10-plys! I mean they never rubbed, but always looked "tight" in there. and that "leftward lean"; I 1st noticed it last Fall, while hauling supplies for my roof job; it seems to have gotten progressively worse thru the winter too.
I sandblasted the arms and cheap spray bombed them so I could get the scale off and check for cracks; now off for alignment tomorrow somewhere; IDK where to go as I used to BE an alignment guy, so always did my own! now to replace the idler arm; not on account of wear; but at the pivot (the "L" where the frame mount comes out of) it is "maoning and groaning" and is ungreaseable; the center link at that point is greasable but not the idler! It isn't worn so it can be aligned as is and the new Idler put on later.
I bought a set of polys for the "new" Cherokee as well, from ESPO it was cheaper that way, saved me on having them shipped seperate; its front end is sounding old and neglected too, like my last one did before it got its new bushings;

I guess I’m going to the flea mkt tomorrow

volaredon — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 01:55:23 +0000

there is a guy I have been corresponding with, from a CL ad, about some old Sun equip and other stuff, from his (now deceased) Dad's garage; (his Dad had owned a couple service stations, from the '50s til about 1980-ish); as it happened he had an old compressor for sale; thought he had it sold but the guy backed out. (that guy wound up with all the Sun equip)

Not wanting the alternative (the guy's sisters calling someone and having it hauled as "junk") and not needing a compressor right now myself, I remembered a buddy who lives <2 mi from the seller telling me how his compressor recently died and how much it would cost to get it fixed (POS oilless, not worth fixing IMHO)
so I called my buddy and had him meet me over there and he wound up buying the compressor; offered a check, the seller said "NO" so being I had the $$$ on me, I told him I'd "front" it to him. (I've known the buyer for like 20 years now)
I had gone back today hoping to buy the hardware cabinet from him (1/4-1/2" bolts of various lengths and washers and nuts) and a pair of fairly hefty jack stands (I thought I had plenty of stands, but find myself "running out" lately) but someone has been there since my 1st visit and beat me; I snoozed/lost. the 1st potential buyer had offered me $100 to haul it like 60 miles had he bought it so I was up there thinking I'd be "making" a few bucks. (I had been back n forth with the 1st guy-in-line about this for about 10 days now)

so we get back to my buddy's house with the compressor; and he asked me about a "horse trade" instead of cash; wound up with a truck FULL of stuff; 5-100 lb bags of Black Beauty sand, (I will be using that) a set of BB, 383-440, Mickey Thompson valve covers, new-in box Duster air shocks and PS pump, a set of BBP alum slots, a mismatched set of Mopar Ralleys (2-14s 2-15s) and a TON of tires some brand new; mostly 13s and 14s from his son's now-gone Furd Escorts. I have no space for it, but he kept saying "cmon throw it in there"; so I am gonna be listing it on CL yet tonite, and making a run to the flea market waaaaay earlier than I was hoping to get outta bed in the AM..... ther was some other stuff I came home with from my buddy's place but that stuff is going behind my truck's seat for spares; NIB "Orange box" and MP voltage reg, an MSD "Blaster2" coil and more. what I came away with is worth more than what I spent on the comp. but I can't keep it long, I'm full to the gills.

been running mt (behind) off lately

volaredon — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 13:42:21 +0000

the last couple weeks its been dead Ford after dead Ford; over 1000 miles on the ol'truck in a week! between my M-I-L's Contour and my nephew's 88 Blunderbird both dead 30-35 miles away, up there every day last week, got teh Contour going (it's here now awaiting more parts):mad: and teh Blunderbird with its dead trans; (I had a "laundry list" on that one as well) that I get to change AGAIN on account of getting a bad one:mad:
yesterday I found myself in Appleton WI; a buddy with 2 dead Rangers and a dead F 250, we went after the only tranny we could find for the F 250; E4OD for a 460 V8, 2 WD; others we found, were a lil further in WI (Green Bay)GA MN TX OK etc; we probably called 100+ yards in IL/NW IN between us looking for a replacement;
this past weekend we went to IN to get an engine for Ranger #1 found off of CL; dead ranger #2 is another buddy's, a sludgebucket of a 2.9 that has oil pressure issues......

then yesterday after a 9+ hour round trip, finished off with installing that trans in the F 250, and verifying it was in fact "good" the alt belt in my truck decided to break, as I headed out; 5 miles from home.
I was loaded with tools alright, but had to call for a ride to Advance for a new belt and a set of cables as it broke just as it was turning dark and I tried to make it the 20 miles home from where the F 250 was..... with the headlights on I made it about 15 of the 20 miles home..... I was on the road by 4AM so we could beat Chicago and Milwaukee traffic (we did) and got home at 9:30PM after 3 trips to the parts store for the right belt (at least the parts store was only a mile from where my truck decided to quit, and the problem I had was relaatively minor compared to what I have had on these others lately)
My buddy did go along to WI and pd for gas and a big breakfast at Perkins, (then his GF fed us dinner when we were done) but the nephew and M-I-L???? they are both costing me dearly. (which I am damn tired of)

I tried to edit the title; it's supposed to be "my" not "MT"; but with the edit it won't let me change the title)

been running my (behind) off lately

volaredon — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 13:42:21 +0000

just brought home a “new” (to me) toy

volaredon — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 04:17:59 +0000

Found on CL; a Snap on "counselor" engine scope. Gawd were they expensive when new! (gotta pay for the name) alot more useful and alot less space than the late 60s/early 70s Sun scope I used to have like 10 years ago; on that one, I rarely used any of the analog gauges on the face; just used the scope itself (but I did use that quite a bit) Been looking lately for a cheap dist machine so I can experiment with a couple dizzys on my truck (and the Fury too as I do want to de lean burn that thing) and found this. Itll work on all my vehicles! (I have no distributor-less vehicles anymore since the kid totalled the 01 Cherokee, lol)
the guy I bought it from got it years ago from a school that did away with auto-shop; looks to have extremely little usage.

who in IL runs antique plates?

volaredon — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 03:19:23 +0000

I am thinking of puttin them on the Fury; MUCH cheaper especially with the increase in "regular" plates to $100 freaking bucks! damn ridiculous for a sticker that probably cost the State a penny for every 10!
I wanted to last year, but the "witch" at the DMV was insistent about "only driving to a repair facility or to/from a show or parade"(and be able to prove it); I see them on the road about daily, somewhere along the way in nice weather.
and other than having custom exhaust bent or maybe an alignment, I do ALL of my own work. and as far as driving to or from a show/display, as far as I am concerned, my car's "on display" every time it gets driven! but $30/5 years beats $100/yr! My sticker is due the end of April. My wife likes driving it to work about 1-2X a week in the summer as its the only vehicle we have with working A/C and with her asthma in hot weather..... are they really that much of "sticklers" for that sort of thing?

a major “WHEW” just happened here!

volaredon — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:27:35 +0000

I'm sure that you guys remember me talking about my kid getting in a wreck back at Xmas; and my anger over the cops writing him a ticket;
well court came today; (well 2nd appearance but the 1st was just "guilty/not guilty") Thank God the cops did not even show, so it was dismissed;
I have never ever had a cop "not show" on me before; hopefully this means the kid's "luck" is better than mine. No traffic school. No $300 fine. (well "face value" is $75 but that is only if you pay before the court date; go to court and that $75 becomes $222, plus being my kid is 16 so that means he falls under the "under 18=mandatory 4-hr traffic school" rule-- at MY added expense of ~$70. as well as the new "parents MUST APPEAR with the kid, law. (which I would have anyway)

but we had talked about it ad-nauseum the last week or so, in case they said this or that, so that hopefully he would not get in there and "freeze"
I even gave him all my cash out of my wallet, in case they blew my gasket and cuffed me; (would not be the 1st time, I am just "that tired" of getting the shaft;) and told him what I wanted to say in there, that he would have to say for me, if they would not let me do so; thank GOD it was all-for-nothing; easiest court appearance I have ever had; and I have to say that I walked out of the County Courthouse for the 1st time ever, not "mad at the world"

---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:18 PM ----------

My biggest issues with this (were) 2;
1) the cops never talked to him at the scene; he told me what happened (I wasn't there/ didn't see it) and I told the cops what Nick had told me while we were waiting for them to show. and I repeated the info to the cops. so they issued it on "hear-say" basis.
they never "investigated" (blown tire? what did the tracks in the unplowed snow look like? any suspension parts hanging) nothing. just off of what I, a non witness, had said.

and 2) within a couple days, one of Nick's buddies flipped his Cherokee as well; and the cops didn't give him a ticket; and a 2nd buddy didnt flip but spun out and went off the road, also needing a tow and a call to the cops. they didn't get tickets but my kid did. I was really "hot" about this part of it.
(but being dismissed, now it's like he didn't get one either) the only "bad thing" (never in a kid's eyes though) is that I had to take him outta school early. I hope he learned something from it though.

what is up with the /6 site?

volaredon — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:52:14 +0000

I tried getting on there today and get something from GoDaddy.com come up instead of what I am after; and a message that "this site has been 'parked' here courtesy of GoDaddy.com". I was trying to search for the "bob the oil guy" thing that comes up each time the subject of fram filters comes up; I don't want "GoDaddy"; but I tried it 5X and that's what I got:rolleyes:

question on airbags

volaredon — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 14:27:25 +0000

My buddy dropped off a 97 Dakota yesterday; just bought; I think he got hosed for what he paid, considering what all it needs;
among them is an airbag; I'm gonna get one from a junkyard; hopefully with C4C, there should be a few in the local yard; but when I go to replace it will I need to also replace any of the sensors etc?

supposedly the PO hit a deer; the hood is slightly wrinkled right at the edge, looks like the grill, lights and frt bumper have been changed; the radiator shroud is shot as is the radiator; the core is twisted, the (plastic) mount tabs are busted off and it is held in w/baling wire.

lube compatibility chart?

volaredon — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 17:33:04 +0000

Not car related but it could be. I know that no OEM (cars, lawn equip, heavy machinery etc) drills and bottles their own lubricants. but it would be nice to know that for instance Mopar XXXXXXX that is recommended in the service manual is actually Shell YYY. or Exxon. or whatever.

I have a late -'80s/early '90s Woods zero turn mower here (same as a Grasshopper) that I want to swap out the hydro fluid in. Problem being the Woods fluid is $37/QUART! that's a $80 oil change with tax and all. I E mailed Grasshopper and they gave me "their" OE fluid number. not much help.
I need to know if "regular" Trans-hydro fluid would be the same.
for reference I have a Woods number of 70776 and a Grasshopper number 345044. I have no clue as to whether these 2 hydro fluids are the same or not. I'm looking at compatibility with seals, hoses and stuff.

garage sale (318 stuff)

volaredon — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:57:10 +0000

I have 3 cranks here, 2 can go.
A) just removed, still oily, (rust preventative) journals look nice would probably polish up "STD"
B)been thru machine shop, been polished "STD".
C) been thru machine shop ben turned 10/10
All are casting number "1841" and will fit either an LA or a Magnum
I do not care which I have left for my current build. "B" and "C" bagged and sprayed with White Lithium when gotten from machine shop but due to time since machined may have surface rust.

also avail; 2, Magnum engine stock "Kegger" intakes; great cores to port out while you continue to drive your truck. 1-EGR type one non EGR type.

1-set of Magnum heads; I know nothing about them other than they were pulled from a '97 engine with 92K miles on it; junkyard engine I got to build up.

1-set '163 casting LA 318 heads; these were on my daily driver 83 D 250, no apparent problems, though I would throw a set of guide seals on while they were off.

several "drive plates" ("flywheels") both Magnum and La types.

AX 15, 5 speed tranny from 93 Dakota, 3.9. Was gonna do a 5 speed swap on my car but changed mind.

Ram racing clutch kit, 1 step over stock, for 92+ truck/Dakota with 143 tooth flywheel

OE 92 318 computer from Dakota with A/T.

Edelbrock #1405. manual choke. pretty clean. Buy, assuming it needs rebuilt (has been sitting)

All parts in south Chicago suburbs, prefer not to ship heavier parts (cranks, especially)

May trade for Volare parts (mainly a need a tan console in good cond)
or 81-93 tailgate, fenders for my truck.
Thanks for the ad!

new here but recognize alot of you!

volaredon — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:06 +0000

I have been lurking here a while but just (finally) registered. I see alot of familiar names from the other Mopar forums I frequent. I don't have an A body (yet) so never really thought to sign up here. Those of you that know me from other forums, I'm still the same guy. (Good? Bad? You decide.)

torque plates absolutely necessary?

volaredon — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 00:45:49 +0000

Like title says. I have my 97 318 Magnum block in the local machine shop (Gawd I hope it comes back as being usable at standard bore so I can use these new parts I already have-- story for another day) and these guys, whom have been at it for years and years, say that it isn't that critical; yet the shop I was gonna try this time (~30 miles away "race specialists") do all their boring/honing with them. I am not trying to get every last 0.001 out of it in the qtr mile, will be a 3 season daily driver/cruiser motor for my Volare.

unusual car for the area @ local dealer

volaredon — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:46:37 +0000

BEAUTIFUL 79 Doba. J code 360. Cali emissions, looks like all there. Lots more crap under the hood that I have never seen on one local to the area.. 84K. pass qtr has a SLIGHT crease behind the wheel well just above the lower body line. only "blem" i seen.
My buddy called me to let me know they had it,, (he works there)
I went and seen it today; very nice car. White blue leather int., I asked "how much" and didn't get an answer yet. Recently replaced- appearing exhaust system, all stock.
I looked under the rocker on the pass side and the rear shackle area (since I had one that popped thru the trunk in like 1987) and like new!
Car's at Taylor Dodge in Bradley IL.

Interior plastic repair; anyone ever done it?

volaredon — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 00:56:02 +0000

I am looking at buying a "plastic welder" where it heats air to use as a "gas" and softens the plastic base and "filler rod" similar to oxy fuel welding for metal. Though I have a very nice set of interior, I have some ratty pieces taht I want to experiment with, adding in custom gauge clusters etc and fix some old speaker holes, etc. (using donor plastic from some junkyard interior panel plastic. Do these machines work, at least well enough to justify the cost? I guess they use these for fixing today's "bumpers" too.

anyone going to swap in Elmhurst IL feb 14?

volaredon — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 18:22:45 +0000

I'll be there. as a spectator not a seller. I do have some items I wouldnt mind bringing along if I had someone interested. but not unless, since I didnt rent a sales booth (swap space)

-'83 318 stock heads off my truck, ran well but could use valveguide seals
--a couple Magnum "keggers" for you to port to your desire (stock as of now)
---a pr of magnum heads
----an AX 15 from a 93 Dakota 2WD V6
-----a new Ram Racing brand clutch kit for 92+ 318 Magnum
------a couple fresh from the machine shop 318 cranks (1 std/other cut 0.010 on rods and mains)
-------an engine computer from a 92 318 Dakota
--------a lo mile take out steering box for a TJ Jeep
---------a front sway bar for same Jeep
---------- various Magnum exh manifolds

PM me for cell number so we can "hook up" at the swap.

misc parts for sale

volaredon — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 16:05:12 +0000

I have this stuff kinda just taking up space; can ship smaller stuff but prefer local pickup on larger stuff;
1) AX 15 tranny, 5 speed from 93 Dakota 3.9 $250
was gonna run in my Volare but changed mind.
2)Ram racing clutch 1 step over stock, for 92+318 magnum new in box $150
3)stock eng. computer from 92 Dakota 318/auto $50
4)Steering box from 99 Wrangler lo mile takeout (I did a frame swap and put my original 97 gearbox back on) $60
5)Front swaybar from same Jeep $20
6) cast alum bracket from Magnum for A/C and alt mounting $25
7) 2, 318 cranks, 1 std polished, 2nd machined 0.010/0.010 both not run since machined, may have surface rust from storage, $100/ea (cost me $130 ea at machine shop to have done up)
8)Magnum full size truck/van pan $40
9)Edelbrock 1405 600 CFM manual choke carb, suggest rebuild from sitting, $50
10)set of stock heads from my 83 D 250 ran well but could use valve seals $80/set
11) set of stock magnum heads $150/set
both sets of heads probably usable as is but good candidates for porting/freshening

WILL BE at the Larry Roeach Chrysler winter swap meet on Valentines day; in Elmhurst IL and will bring REQUESTED parts along but no more since I did not set up for a swap space this year. PM me for cell phone number, so we can connect there at swap meet

5 sp. swap for less $$ than Keisler?

volaredon — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 04:31:42 +0000

I am trying to do this "home brew" style"; I cannot swing $3K! car is bare gutted shell right now in the bodywork phase; next will be assembly/mock up; I'm wanting a T5 from a Mustang behind a 318 Magnum. Any sources for T/O bearing (hydraulic/internal slave type) for <$500???

Oh; I am doing this "old school hot rod style" in a Volare. but that don't mean I want a hack job either by any means. I am decent (I would not call myself "great") the biggest thing would be the rear crossmember; I have a driveshaft shop near me, conversion bells are available,
next hurdle would be speedo drive.

I know I'm gonna have to modify a shifter handle as I want to use a factory F body console (that were originally only put into A/T cars) I dont believe that will be a big deal either. I have a torch a MIG and a stick welder, drill press, 15 Ton bearing press and more, here at home.

new here from IL

volaredon — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 03:57:17 +0000

been lurking a while. New here but not to Mopars or Mopar foirums. I recognize some of you here from the other forums I go to; I have never owned a FWD anything, in my 26 years of driving, and never anything but a Mopar or Jeep.
I have 2 "classics" one a pretty clean lo mile original the other a gutted shell, long (too long) term resto mod;
1) 78 Fury 2 dr hardtop; all dead stock 318, 904, working A/C, except true duals, air shocks, maintenance items like tuneup parts, waterpump etc; even still has its Lean burn intact. 47K orig miles, I'm 2nd owner and that miles is with having Long hauled the Power Tour in '09.

2) 80 Volare 2 door faded/peeling gray, was a /6, 904, power steer manual brakes no AC; "econo special" had 48K orig on it when I got it about 6 years ago.

In a home made rotisserie, so I can repl. the driver front frame rail,
car will be 90s truck "Intense Blue", OE Volare "butterscotch" interior, with a 318 Magnum, 5 speed, with factory F body console, and a few Super Coupe/Kit Car touches mixed in. 8-1/4, 3.55 with Sure Grip.
Spent 2+ years in a body shop that never touched it, (was supposed to take "a couple weeks" to do that phase of the work) during which I got severely hurt and put on disability. I can do alot of what I used to again but not all. I have most of what I'm lacking to put that car back together and not working, I have the time. will be a 3 season "cruiser" when done,
am currently looking for a Mustang "World class" or "Cobra" 5 speed.

as "daily's" I have 2-97 Jeeps (Wrangler and Cherokee) and an 83 D 250.

transmission swap-er-oo qustions

volaredon — Sun, 31 Jan 2010 04:28:35 +0000

I think I have seen what I am gonna ask for somewhere before on the Web but since I cant find it now I'll ask here;
For those of us that are not totally worried about exact numbers matching in the resto of our cars and in the old spirit of "hot rodding" mixing/matching parts to fit one's wants for their car, is there a site I can go to and look up dimensions of different manual trannys?
Input spline count output spline count
Individual gear ratios
length overall (case) overall (tip of input to tip of output shaft) from front of case to center of shifter mechanism
width Diameter at fattest point
built in shifter or seperate shifter/rod setup
strength (trque/HP rating)
speedo drive setup and adaptation how to's
hyd. or mechanical clutch actuation? Internal or external slave?

I have had and gotten rid of a couple of B body length (actually out of trucks) 833 ODs because though I know they would fit and all, but knowing that I couldn't use a Hurst shifter with a factory F body console
(and having that "1 more gear" to play with certainly helps) I am looking into a couple of possible 5 speed swaps; I actually have a Dakota spec AX 15 here collecting dust; but is there a better choice? I realize that anything I do will take a cartain amount of custom-fabbing.

but would a T 5 be better? Which version? (S 10, GM F body, Mustang)
or a T 45? or another I have heard mentioned; an Aisin Warner (same co the AX 15 came from) R 154? or a (same company) W58? or something else that I am not even considering?
I'd bet that info could be useful for several members here, considering "something different" that wants to do a 5 speed for less than they could get one from Keisler. Yeah we'd be on our own, but sometimes that's the "fun" of it.

engine build snafu; what would you do?

volaredon — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 16:18:42 +0000

This is a Magnum 318; out of 98 Durango, but destined for my 80 Volare. (could be any engine though all things considered) finally gettin back going, on a too-long sitting project.

this engine came from my neighbor's truck; neglected. I got it as partial "payment" for helping with the swap. only 84K miles.

I took it all apart and into the machine shop a few years ago and had it all prepped; hot tanked, cam bearings, mic'd and honed out; rods recon'd, new pistons pressed on, etc. it came out that it would be "buildable" as a standard engine; no bore job needed.

So, I bought all the pieces I would need, and started in on the build up.
go to put on piston #6, and dammit; lower oil scraper came outta the groove as I compressed the rings; (about a 5/8" long "tail" still trying to figure out how that would happen) and got "pinched" between the piston skirt and the bore and put a "Healthy" scratch in the bore.

Re-disassembled and back to the machine shop. They honed it out OK but now I will have 1 hole with double-plus the clearance of the rest (like 0.006")
Though I have asked on the "old" version of this forum before and was told it "should be" OK, especially being hyper euctic pistons I'm not comfortable with it. Too many horror stories about the brittleness of them ("no nitrous" they don't like excess clearances, etc; and NO I don't plan nitrous anyway for this motor, just different things I have heard)
but the "don't like extra clearances" is the part that gets me; this is my 1st time using the hypereuctics.
the machine shop wants to knurl that 1 piston and I put it together and go with that. (these are coated pistons; I think that would ruin the coating and increase the clearance that much more)

At best, I figure that the #6 hole will "eat" oil; at worst, the skirt will crack, etc. ruining my engine.
and I'm not sure how many times pistons can be pressed on/off a set of rods and still be serviceable. these are coated pistons.
(if I find another block I can have the o/s pistons pressed on those rods for this block for "next time" and leave these on this set of rods)
I spent decent $$ on these pistons already and don't wanna ruin them in the process, that would definitely be a waste. if I can use em on a future build they won't go to waste.

I ain't happy about it, but I figure now's the best time to back track and make it right. cost less now than after assembly and then find out I have problems. If only for my own "piece of mind" I wanna fix it RIGHT.
Yeah I knw it'll "last the life of the motor" if I do as the machine shop said and knurl that 1 piston. But I want that "life" to be a long one!

So; again if only for piece of mind; do I;
A) buy another set of pistons and rings and have this block bored to match, have the pistons pressed back off and set them on the shelf for next time; being hypereuctics, will they "stand" being pressed back off without damage so I CAN use them in a future build?
or
B)find another rebuildable block that will clean up "standard" so I can use the parts I have on hand and save the block for a future build? this is NOT my 1st 318 build (1st Magnum though) nor will it be my last.
just the 1st time I have had that problem.
or
c) (Personally I don't like this idea) build it as is and see what happens
I dont want an oil burner nor do I want that piston cracking because of the extra room it has.
I know it will be cheaper to fix it right, now, than to build it as is and then deal with whatever problems pop up.

dash plastic; can it be fixed?

volaredon — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:49:17 +0000

Who knows what about the "repairability" of dash or console or inner rear quarter plastic?
also rear spoiler? This stuff is "plastic" not fiberglass; so I have my doubts of fiberglass resin taking hold. is there a "plastic" resin, similar to fiberglass that I could work in conjunction with fiberglass cloth?
I'm looking to bridge cracks from the underside, where it would not be seen as installed; re form ugly speaker holes so that different sized speakers, maybe "aim" them while I was at it; and put mold some auxiliary gauge pods into this plastic; also as I am wanting to put a 5 speed in the car with a factory F body console so I may have some mods to do pertaining to that as well.
so who knows what about repairing/modifying this plastic? Lost cause? Damaged parts, basically "scrap"?

ugh…. 604 stuck in 2nd (limp mode) gear

volaredon — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:32:25 +0000

JY buy; was gone through internally and all new seals... I'm thinking either solenoid pack or input sensor... I forget; did these have a seperate TCM or was it incorporated in the engine one? vehicle... 90 Caravan 3.3

tool mfr info; Rockwell/Delta?

volaredon — Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:05:52 +0000

I finally got me a drill press yesterday; for the money I COULD NOT turn it down (free!) I know the old Rockwell/Delta was commercial duty "back then"; even today's "commercial", is not often as well built as yesterday's "homeowner duty";
I am looking to ID this thing and find out what year it was made.
I also need a new belt for it; the one on there is still "there" but barely.
It has an adjustable speed clutch on it that looks kinda like a snowmobile clutch.

need tires? Check out CL

volaredon — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 05:47:58 +0000

Since I bought this "new" Cherokee, I have been pricing tires. the ones on it are worn even, still ~1/2 tread, still bite the snow OK, but the sidewalls are uggly. either dry rot or someone liked using em as curb feelers. (I'm guessing the 1st one, since all 4 tires are that way)

looking on CL..... I found a set of 235/75/15s Michelin "X" on Jeep aluminum rims; so I went to check them out;
this particular tire is "only" sold at clubs like Sam's; but other than the name stamped on the sides they are identical to the LTX series; thought of a price I wanted to offer on the ride there; after seeing pix and talking to the seller;
but I figured his "set" would = 4 tires and rims; I was wrong; it was 5.
Brand new with 182 miles on them... yup... and 0 on that spare. It seems his sister bought brand new, top of the line tires; and then went to trade it in as a clunker! I got the reciept w/warranty and all.... and only a year old, according to the serial numbers...
so, I guess; he was able to talk his sister into putting some junk rollers on there, just to limp it to its death.

so.... I got 5 brand new tires, already mounted/balanced, on Jeep wheels, in the size I wanted, cheaper than I paid for the 4 that I bought from my wife's work, when they had their buy 3 get 1 free, deal going on, for my other Jeep; (the Wrangler not the wrecked Cherokee) and all I gotta do is bolt 'em on. and once I saw that this was 5 mounted tires, (not just 4) I made him an offer which he (reluctantly) took. it was only 10% less than his asking price; but way more than he'd have gotten, had they gone with the C4C.

auto ins. question/”totalled” buyback?

volaredon — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 00:31:28 +0000

how does this work? Never been in this situation before. I remember my Dad being there, but that was what; 20 years ago. I'm guessing things have changed from what I remember back then.
1) I have heard that a vehicle <10 years old can't be bought back. true?(rumor of some "law" that won't let a vehicle less than a certain age be "bought back")
2) how do they determine the price that you can buy back at?
2a) is this at all negotiable?
3) also how "rigid" is the 1st offer they give you? No injuries or other damage they need to worry about. single car roll over bad roads but my kid did get a ticket out of the deal "too fast for conditions". :mad::mad:which will be ~$300 out of Dad's (as in "my") pocket plus the deductible that my offer will be shorted by. I have already bought a replacement vehicle but I dropped to one 4 years older than my wrecked Jeep.

Vehicle involved is my '01 Cherokee XJ. I replaced it with a 97 Cherokee.
Prices on CL for about any 97-01 below 200K miles starts about $3500; NADA "Private party" on the 97 I bought was $2900 with miles considered; but NADA "Clean retail" is $4900. I gave more than PP but way less than Retail.

what gets me is that my buddy has a 2000 Cherokee (1 year older than my wreck) that was totalled (other driver's fault) with 182K miles on it; he got ~$3750 for his; if they took his Jeep. his "buyback" was $555.95. so he got $31XX since he kept his. there arent any 2000's on the lots even with those miles that I have seen for less than $5K. What number do they use for a "value" Does it matter if it's "the other guy's fault" or not? do they then use a different guide?
though I have State Farm; the kid that hit my buddy's Jeep was a no name company. I hope paying for the "name brand" insurance helps me.

I got a 97 with only 101K; all of them on the lots I see (forget book value) with that kind of miles is listed around $6K. the one I bought was the lowest mileage Cherokee around for sale by a private party other than a 2WD version; and those don't count since 2 WD isnt what we wanted.
but being I "lost" 4 years compared to the '01 that was recently wrecked I also went from a Jeep with 169K to one with 101K on the clock.

I have called and E mailed on tons of them in that price range; $3500 typically gets one with 140K miles up to about 180K;
I seen some same-year GRAND Cherokees cheaper; yet they were much more expnsive when they were side by side on the showroom floor; I was not interested in a "GRAND" because among other things they have too much plastic on the body for my liking. Nothing but huge water traps to hold moisture and speed the rot out process.

I am wanting to buy this one back for spare parts for the 97 and also since what my buddy needs for his is undamaged on mine.

who has Carfax access?

volaredon — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 14:08:16 +0000

like title says; I have one I'd like run.

what next? this makes 4 now.

volaredon — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 20:14:40 +0000

My son just rolled my 01 Cherokee a few hours ago. He's OK (just shaken) the Jeep is a total but the f*ing cops just HAD to get their $.02 (will probably be at least $200 in reality) and give him a TICKET! He coulda killed himself, (Thank God he didn't) we definitely gotta go car shopping again, (the Wrangler aint big enough for the 3 of us) and the truck ain't the best in the snow (3/4 ton 2WD) the insurance is gonna skyrocket and the cops gotta rub that salt in there.
He was on a snowy road (why he didn't have it in 4WD, I dont know) he says he was going ~20-25 "30 max" the rear end came around and next thing he knew he was upside down in the ditch.

2 for me 1 for the wife and now one for the kid this year.

anyone here ever work on LP powered cars/trucks?

volaredon — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 04:38:54 +0000

Thinking of scrounging up the needed parts to swap my truck over; probably run dual fuel so I can start and warm up on gasoline then switch over to the LP. just an idea at this point; no more.
I have not yet spent any coin on parts yet, "shopping" the idea around. I think that starting with a carb'd engine instead of EFI, I'm ahead on the process, if I were to decide to follow thru with it.